Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown S01E05 2013 1080p WEB DL H264 AAC DDHDTV

[Music] for [Music] [Music] wow I took a walk through this beautiful world felt the Cool Rain on My [Applause] Shoulder found something good in this world I felt the rain getting CER [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] it takes a special breed to live in a province like Quebec it gets cold in Winter and Winters are [Music] long it takes a special kind of person for whom frozen rivers icy wind whipped streets deep seemingly endless forests are the norm I will confess my partisanship upfront I love Montreal it is my favorite place in can the people who live there are tough crazy bastards and I admire them for it Toronto Vancouver I love you but not like Montreal why I shall explain all will be revealed in the meantime check this guy out what's the post office's motto neither rain nor sleep nor driving snow nor plague of locust prevent the mail carrier from delivering my junk mail here in Montreal the simple task of delivering the mail in Winter comes with its own set of hurdles icy hurdles I got to ask do you have special equipment for this we got like slip-on boots we do have other boots in the rains uh sorry when it gets icy with uh uh spikes on them uh-huh and they give us also slipon spikes for when it's iy any sort of city ordinance that you have to shovel they're not they're not penalized financially or anything no nothing like that any injuries in the line of duty I've had uh several like tumbles one incident that I was off for 2 months I thought I broke my ankle what is the most perilous aspect of the job would it be dogs or uh icy stairs in this area there's a lot of dogs but I see the icy [Music] stairs it's one thing to have to work outside in this winter remess but it takes a strange and wonderful kind of mutant to actually find it pleasurable like well these two gentlemen do you like the cold I mean by you I mean queca it cleans the streets of Ebola the cold yeah The Frigid cold keeps the Riff Raff out of the city for sure Fred Mora and David McMillan restorator chefs at the legendary Joe Beef Bon vivon RAC historians of their beloved great white North princes of hospitality and what you me like this do for fun when the rivers turn to ICE 3 ft thick when testicles shrink and most of us Scurry for warmth and shelter if they were like so many other Canadians they would go ice fishing on the St Lawrence River The Cabin Fever induces in the cuqua family because we are confined perhaps to spend so much time indoors a lot of the families love to do you know activities together like this go to the cottage go ice fishing you know it's like gets you out of the house and it's very much a family thing like many of their ilk they'd seek one of the temporary small towns of sled born cabins drill a hole in the ice and wait but these are not normal men so is Quebec better than the rest of Canada obviously it's not that yeah I mean come on dipl you you you you didn't have to think about that long no now wait a minute now are strippers paid hourly here is that right it's not a tip system it's considered an art a performance art it's considered a performance art so how does that work you don't you don't tip your St your paper song your paper song iser song and then you can get a dance in the back which is a private dance and that's 10 bucks a song five bucks a song in public that's why I go to progue rock strip bars because the songs are super long and I'm a bit cheap you know I go for the King Crimson lab dance after a suspiciously stunned looking fish emerges from the deep previously rof andol by an eager producer no doubt it is ignored because Fred and Dave do things differently no crudely fried fish and breadcrumbs for these large living 19th Century men oh W holy [ __ ] look at that instead a hearty lunch of French Classics accompanied by many Fine Wines and lurs as befitting gentlemen of discerning tastes who've exhausted themselves in the wild so this is how you live well more often than not yes we always have to travel well and eat properly we're drinking a natural white W por white burgundy these are Glacier Bay oysters as well as there a couple of bosay thrown in there they're delicious in my prize possession those little wonderful alzas glasses yeah I the funnest part about the restaurant business isn't it the the cutlery just a spoon is absolutely gorgeous you know Fred has a wonderful collection of table wear without getting you snobby or elitist you know eating off vintage uh table wear is one of the great choice out of life well this is the interesting Paradox of you guys on one hand you aspire to have to run a democratic establishment uh open to all and yet you are hopeless Romantics when it comes to painful nostalgics the art of living right what the sustenance is required look at this like say a consum of oxtail to begin followed perhaps by a chilled Lobster Al parisen the art of dining is the kind of Disappearing much to our chin I work super hard at being an excellent dining companion when seeking excellence in a dining companion what qualities does one look for I turn my phone off I you know I never put my elbows on the table I don't of come prepared with stories don't don't drink too much don't become sloppy become prepared with anecdotes absolutely elbows on the table no it's not it's not it's not proper I'm have a total failure as a dining companion what what what is that what's that you ask an iconic escoffier era classic of gastronomy oh look at that sauce holy crap the devilishly difficult Le Al Roy a boneless wild hair in a sauce of its own blood a generous heaping of fresh black truffle garnished with thick slabs of fagra seared directly on the top of the cabin's wood stove oh damn look at that we're we're we're in a wooden Shack over 3 ft of ice and 100 ft of water you are hopeless hopeless Romantics gentlemen oh Jesus look at that the seared fua is perched to top an ethereal suspension of Joel rushan inspired potato puree of course this is coros from reard Vineyard by Teran m nice oh that's wonderful yes yes it is really is there a is there a a billionaire or a desperate anywhere on Earth who at this precise moment is eating better than us no no look at that it was cheese there must be cheese in this case a voluptuously wreaking AAS who some less hearty Outdoorsman might call overripe but not us this is awesome what do we got here a few Cubans oh wait a minute you guys uh have a much more relaxed attitude towards the importation of Cuban cigars chartreuse of course and a dessert as rare as it gets a dinosaur era monster long believed extinct this is gate maralen who does this no no it's one of those like painful nostalgic thing layers of almond and hazelnut mering chocolate butter cream oh my God look at that M damn that's good for these guys this is normal this is lunch Sunday it's like Playhouse in my house it's French Playhouse yeah what do you do they get dressed at their house no way tell me all about this dresses kids too he's a Dandy a Sunday Dandy last time I did I did R and the lard Tor I made a cre caramel I made salad right I Madeo right with a chem fash and then the huge cheese cart that was about like 15 kinds of cheese right and how many people are in your family at this meal him and his wife and two young boys how how old are the kids two and four so you your wife and a 2-year-old and a four-year-old they don't they don't make it to the end usually I have to like I have to like prematurely open the open the V you don't likeo you know what I'm thinking this I'm thinking that that's really up but I'm also thinking you know I got to do that I'm going to do that and actually my daughter would totally be into it [Music] once every few decades maybe every Century a nation will produce a hero an escoffier a Muhammad Ali a Dalai Lama Joey Ramon someone who changes everything about their chosen Feld who changes the whole landscape life after them is is never the same marttin p is such a man a here to for unencountered hybrid of rugged Outdoorsman veteran chef with many years of fine dining experience Renegade innovator he is one of the most influential chefs in North America he is also a proud kebec W and perhaps he more than anyone else has defined for a new generation of Americans and Canadians what that means he is an likely Ambassador for his country and his Province but maybe not so unlikely I mean look at him out for a day trapping Beaver with local Trapper Carl no so you the bait is wood yeah they just heat the the the bark they eat the bark yeah yeah yeah now said in Pioneer Days Beaver was the financial engine of of of Canada yeah Empires were built on it every hat practically in the world was was uh was made of a beaver pelt that's why today it's the icon of Canada to a lesser extent the tradition continues today Carl continues to trap usually called on by provincial officials to trap beaver and clear away dams and control what can become a destructively overpopulated situation yeah now way hello my little friend this is a young one and those are the one we want to heat what would you compare the meat too is there anything like it that that's the thing you know there's nothing nothing like it you know when you eat Beaver you understand that it's Beaver Marta along with an encyclopedic knowledge of Fine Wines and an inexplicable attachment to the music of Seline Dion is a big believer in honoring history and tradition if you still trap beavers you should if at all possible cook them and eat them not just strip them of their pelts as incredible as it might seem you can cook Beaver really really well beaver tail on the other hand is not actually Beaver at all rather a quick spoon bread type of thing that in our case goes somewhat arai during an inadvertent Inferno with the sauce it almost looks like chocolate it's so rich looking huh I love it when it's like that some people don't put too much blood but I like when it's very thick wow it's absolutely delicious yeah it is I wasn't joking but tastes like chicken no it doesn't taste like chicken at all this is your first time yeah oh wow that's something I I think you almost eat everything yeah at this point you know animals they see me and they're like not him I'm not that guy there's a joke around here somewhere but to tell you the truth the stuff is just too [Music] good it's like 10 below zero in this freaking town and that generally does not spell good time for me a good time for me is more like a palm tree a beach a swimming pool where the only cold thing is my beard but no these Hardy culinarians of the North like to frolic in the snow and ice more accurately they like to obey their genetic keca imperative to risk dental and maxio facial injury by skating around slapping at a hard disc trying to drive it in each other's general direction I believe they call this sport hockey this is not not in my blood do you do you skate yeah we grew up on ranks like this does everyone in Quebec uh is pretty much obligatory here your there's no reason to live here if it's no hockey hockey rinks pop up all over the city to accommodate Montreal's desire to risk teeth groin and Limb and right behind Fred and Dave's Restaurant Joe Beef a pickup game of chefs cooks and Hospitality professionals is underway some of these guys that put a Char will be a little long in a tooth to be out there swinging sticks at each other and uh uh skidding around in the ice this is a normal behavior people actually do this for fun yeah absolutely this is an everyday kimik wag growing up playing hockey Canadian national sport man right and this young one is already being indoctrinated hello young man you going to play hockey yes you're good at hockey are you going to be a goalie or a player player oh oh bam quick am I going to get like a mouthful of pocket by the [Applause] way it's being catered with friend and Dave's usual [Music] restraint come eat hot cocoa in styrofoam cups uh no try a Titanic shukru garne ala alasen containing Flintstone siiz hunks of pork belly patrine bacon homemade budam Blan Kil basa smoked chops plus like ve and pork links oh yeah this is a truly heroic uh recruit oh look at the beautiful work of linking these it's awesome this dish is the uh single best argument for sharing a border with Germany and of course the finest wines known to humanity we got German wine we got sylvaner and pirate bottles sweet what am I drink on here Canadian reing this is Norman Hardy reeling from Prince County 5 hours from here amazing wine there's an allegory here somewhere I'm reaching for it something about Fred and DA's Reckless abandon coupled with precision and technique a hockey metaphor perhaps the hell with it ooh look sausages [Music] Montreal to Quebec City by rail 160 m of wintry Vistas whip past the Windows evocative for some of another time here you go Canadian caviar sturgeon Acadian caviar I'm not sure about Dave McMillan but in Fred Mor's perfect world we would all travel by rail it would still be the Golden Age of rail travel so uh tell me about the Great Canadian rail system it's purely emotional really there's nothing rational about it Fred is what one might call conservatively an aicat how extreme is your railroad nerdism this is how bad it gets operating manual for this model of train yeah so you have other operating books printed ephemera Collectibles Fred retains an enduring love for the great iron horses that still take passengers across the Frozen land he calls home but it's something more than just Nostalgia it's also an appreciation for a dying art I mean it's like the old cruise ships or you transport your comfort you know in those housian days of cross country rail there were lavish dining cars luxurious sleeping compartments a bar car with livered attendance we look at the menus of all all the how people used to eat on trains it's almost inspiration of how we cook in the restaurant pass all the sweet breads and fresh peas with bernes sauce those leg of lamb current jelly very nice pictures in the book The dining by train book and the guy holding the turkey and cutting the turkey and you order a drink it comes from a bottle made out of glass into a glass made out of glass right which is kind of cool in our day and age comes back to service doesn't it well well thank you we are presented with a perfectly serviceable omelet there may no longer be a smoking lounge with brass spatoon but this does not mean a traveler has to suffer so you always travel with a truffle shaver well during truffle season as a gentleman must hold on wait a minute I got to get a inaction photograph here hold on Canadian rail so all these people are going to like be expecting wait a minute where's my fist sized black truffle can I have the Truffle option please oh of course what was the other don't forget the [Music] F Quebec City one of the oldest European settlements in North America Samuel the Champlain known as the father of New France sailed up to St Lawrence and founded the site in 16008 when the fighting started with you know who Quebec city was the French stronghold until The Bitter End when the French fell at The Plains of [Music] [Applause] Abraham the French may have lost that one but some things French have stayed firm unbowed resiliently unchanged by Trends or history the Continental is the kind of place about which I am unreservedly sentimental when I was younger I ate here with my grandparents and my parents yes that's restaurant in town in 1956 classic unironic Cuisine aen meaning dishes you haven't seen since like forever a hipster free zone of French Continental ocean liner Classics such as Caesar salad tossed fresh to order tableside and beef tartar also prepared tableside as one must shrimp cocktail not a deconstructed shrimp cocktail mind you a shrimp cocktail the way Jesus wants you to eat them all served by a dedicated professional in at culinary school we were taught this real customers as your class we'd have to do the PE the fruits table side all that which inevitably would fly off the fork Atlanta in somebody's soup I was so bad at it too I start with the orange run into trouble I'll be right back behind the screen I'm like with my teeth ripping the thing at least once a day one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire the Sterno would like spill and they light it there'd be this line from like the thing down across the floor up their leg no that [ __ ] doesn't happen here like I said professionals this is going to go like a big Fireball Fireball good the kind who know how to properly prepare these dishes sweet I swear I had like a goosebump moment where yeah for Dave another classic fet Deb onat a filet Min a sauce made of cognac cream and glass of Yar that is nice look at that and for Fred scampy Newberg when's the last time you saw the word Newberg on a menu awesome absolutely awesome but for me that most noble of dishes Dover Soul this appears to be one of the few remaining Servers Alive who knows how to take that fish off the bone sauce it and properly serve it thank you very much man I love this place I'm so happy it's very comforting there's continuity in this world [Music] across [Music] town another thing entirely the younger Wilder lafair a ketchup which I am reliably informed means everything's cool in local [Music] idiom at this point in my life I just don't know anymore are these young Cooks these servers these dedicated entrepreneurs are they hipsters or am I just a cranky old who thinks anybody below the age of 30 is a hipster I don't know but I admire them so how much do they cost you when you open not much look at this tiny electric forb burer stove at no point in my cooking career could I have worked with one of these without murdering everyone in the vicinity before hanging myself from the nearest beam I how long did it take to adapt to the uh I would say like 3 months at the beginning like I was lucky that I didn't add like a lot of Customer because I was like oh man oh was was freaking out and yet these kids today look at them go serving a wildly ambitious and quite substantial Ever Changing menu out of this this Suzie Homemaker oven tonight there's Razer clams with burn wette ooh and a cream of herck R very cool thank you I love razor [Music] clams and Kookie sjac you'll notice that nobody in Quebec seems to skim on the portions a Tarina fagra head cheese with cassis mustard oh and redo truf that's truffled sweet breads and you got some Goose hearts perad for good measure there's a goose heart it's excellent Goose heart hearts in general oh also you got your Maro salet with grilled tomato bread that's that's salt card for you and [Music] I'm all swollen up like the Misha Tire dude and ready to burst in a livery omnidirectional Mist Hotel Motel time for [Music] me how Canadian is Quebec are they truly one entity or two this is a question that has been wrestled with for some time Quebec is certainly part of Canada but in many ways both culturally spiritually and linguistically it's very much another thing entirely there's a lot of history much of it contentious go back far enough and you get a clearer picture of why the French arrived on the shores of Quebec City in the early 16th century but come to the military might of Great Britain in the mid 18th thus began a gradual but steady persecution of all things French the kebec qua have struggled mightily to hang on to their French heritage and language the issue of seceding entirely a notion that persists to some extent even today journalist Patrick lagas meets me for lunch at bastro M suras to help me understand a little bit of what many keca feel is at stake so I was going to talk about the whole history French cuqua identity the separatist movement all of this but I have to get right to the pressing matter of the day pasta gate pasta gate what do you want to know about pasta gate for those not up on current Quebec politics pastagate refers to an incident where local authorities notified an Italian restaurant that they were in violation of French laws because they used the word pasta which is Italian this is okay stop apologizing okay don't get me wrong my last name is B I lean French hard I am enormously sympathetic to the language laws you don't think it's Preposterous I do not think it's Preposterous but here we have a situation it is stupid uh I agree with you completely that this this province 40 years ago was in some respect an English city so we needed to have language laws for signage and stuff now signage for instance must by law be principally in French French first in all things but every bureaucracy produces byproducts of stupidity and that was it and you know what it will not stand the Anglo Canadians treated french-speaking keca like second class crap for much of History so I get it I'd be pissed too I'd want my own thing and when I got it I'd want to make sure there's no backsliding to the bad old days when when the the first uh sovereignist party to be elected was elected in 1976 it didn't come out of a vacuum it came out from a couple of Decades of of Awakening and struggle 50 years from now will people still speaking predominantly French in Montreal yes no doubt about it no doubt about it French first is something most would agree with how far and how rigorously you want to go with that well do you think there was ever any possibility or real majority or plurality of of of keka who would have voted in separate nation status La you know in English you guys say timing is everything right and timing was never better than in the period 1990 1991 '92 because in '95 this country came inches from being broken up yeah do you think it'll ever happen in in a history of the world I don't know but I know one thing anybody who says separatism is dead in this country and this province is a fool no matter how you feel about Quebec as either separate from or as essential part of Greater Canada any any reasonable person loves this place correct me if I'm wrong linis is famous for the sandwich the special special right and in what tradition does this fall it basically Eastern Europe it was a survival thing it was cuz they were poor and that's what they could make willinsky an old school Corner institution around since 1932 serving up press beef Baloney and salami sandwiches or specials as they call them along with egg creams and milkshakes so um the the special and an appropriate beverage egg [Music] cream very happy here's how it goes there are rules the special is always served with mustard it is never cut in two don't ask why just because that's the way it's always been done a little respect for tradition please I'm happy now you know some things are beloved institutions for a reason this is delicious thank [Music] you the tradition of the kaban asuk or Sugar Shack is as old as maple syrup here in Quebec where 70% of the world's Supply comes from deeply embedded in the maple syrup outdoor Lumberjack lifestyle is The Cabin in the Woods where maple sap is collected and boiled down to syrup over time many of these cabins became informal eating houses dining halls for workers and a few guests were a lucky few could sit at communal tables and enjoy the Bounty of the trees and forests around [Music] them martar has taken this tradition to what is somehow both its logical conclusion and insane extreme creating his own Cabana souk open only during Maple season and serving food stemming directly from those humble yet Hardy Roots it makes perfect sense in one way I mean 130 Acres produce about 32,000 gallons of maple sap which run through these tubes to here where they're cooked down to about 800 gallons of syrup which is more or less what they use per season here nothing leaves the property and it makes sense while you're here to raise Hogs and cattle on the property and maybe keep a cabin or two around for any friends who get too loaded to sleep it off but this this is there really any reason for [Music] this what are you doing here why do you have to make life so hard if money were your primary motivation it this doesn't seem like the fastest road to Untold wealth grandfather you know had a Sugar Shack everybody had a you can go back you know a three generation they had a Sugar Shack and I'm very proud of uh Quebec I'm very proud of Canada you know you celebrate Canadian history you celebrate Canadian Traditions you celebrate Canadian uh ingredients in a way that no one else has are you some kind of patriot is that what's going on here is it is it national uh much very much I say it all the time this is one of the most important restaurants to me in North America if not the world it's an art installation if you actually pretty look at [Music] it the meal begins begins with a tower of maple desserts good Lord sponge Maple toffee Maple Donuts Beaver Tails Maple cotton candy but but but wait there's more almond quason whipped biscuits some new good yeah a there we go I think that's a first for me I've never seen that done no well that with a [Music] hammer Let The Madness begin next a whole loobe of fagra with baked beans on a pancake cooked in duck fat of course cottage cheese and eggs cooked in maple syrup wow that's awesome there's a healthy salad sauté duck Hearts gizzards and pigs ear topped with a heaping pile of fried pork rice good Lord oh and a calf brain and maple bacon omelette and these how was this made with love with love Panko and crusted duck drumsticks with shrimp and salmon mousse and maple barbecue sauce good Lord wow so this is a classic ker dish it's called L you know a meat pie totier Dak a whole Lam cheese fuagra calf brain sweet breads bacon and arugula but with martta that's not sufficient usually there's no truffle but I just yes black truffles more truffle it's going to be too much truffle my blood's getting thicker as I look at that and now the main course a homegrown smoked right out front local ham with pineapple and green beans almondine and chicken but with marttin a chicken is never just chicken that's stuff with Kino fuaga and lobster we pump Lobster bis in the chicken chicken yeah good God there is a light at the end of the [Music] tunnel someone should be singing the National Anthem now I mean really this is and practically prehistoric old school Canadian classic maple syrup is heated then poured on snow becoming a kind of Taffy but the preferred delivery mechanism does present some [Music] issues yeah no no no no no no take a big one and you have to suck it don't swallow it you know look you have to go like that slowly slowly you know just that slowly slowly that's how it's good that's it can I do that in a manly way yeah you just don't look down at it you sort of Look Away a distracted way it's like I'm not really I'm really talking you the best way is to look [Music] up finally there's Maple mering cake and maple ice cream with chocolate shards any suggestion how to attack this we did it once I want a chef suggesting for the ice cream cone Chef suggest that you eat the ice cream like that that's the thing I think there's too much focusing on the food you know you know like wow this is very intellectual and I wow and then blah blah I've done too much all those all those [ __ ] you know I don't want to do that I don't want to play game anymore because food is feces in [Laughter] Waiting this is CNN [Music] if there's one thing you always need on a cold snowy night it's yet another hearty meal I meet back up with Fred and Dave at Liverpool house the sister restaurant to Joe Beef I think we always compensate a little bit with overabundance of food because of our insecurity of not being like good Cooks no you know what it's a combination of low self-esteem and generosity that explains the amount of food per half first course J grax of Char Solomon G beats and eggs look at that unbelievable look at the asmic work this is smoked deal and potatoes inside salmon pami and wait a minute this is super CL and this o onele egg and aspic softboiled or poached egg and clear gelatin set broth classically garnished with white ham taragon leaves black truffles oh my God I was pretty sure that I would live the rest of my life without ever seeing this again ah delicious but tonight after a full week of Franco Canadian full-on assaults on our livers and our lights Fred and Dave thought who would be both delicious and merciful to take advantage of the somewhat lighter and insanely delicious fair by their brilliant Chef Omar who's from Pakistan amazing authentic Pakistani food so what do we have here butter chicken crab octopus Tika little eggplants raised with Anar seeds pomegranate little mushrooms rabbit corma fingerlings with a Fen Greek and fenel this is Dunkey nahari yes he did say donkey meat is there something wrong with that the dishes continue a Pakistani gumbo with okra and coriander a sesame seed and green pepper Curry hanger steak P paneer all beef scotched egg a Puri with horsemeat tartar and an authentic goat Biryani wow Biryani is awesome Are You full yeah f for 12 we did good work here in the end and perhaps as a a nod to the Anglo tradition however there will be stiled this is a genius meal these princes of gastronomy never a suboptimal moment nothing short of excellent accepted Beyond excellent too much excellent yes possibly over the top yeah definitely it all comes around in the end the circle of life we begin at the beginning the heart and soul of every right thinking keca apparently ice a stick and a puck Fred and Dave and Mart Car are joined by the original God of Montreal Gastronomy the great chef normal LA pris to watch their beloved Montreal Canadians lay waste to the Carolina Hurricanes all the while eating of course and drinking as it turns out the finest wines known to humanity and here we go [Applause] [Music]