Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown S01E04 2013 1080p WEB DL H264 AAC DDHDTV

for most of my life Libya was a word with bad associations Libya meant Gaddafi Libya meant terrorism Pam flight 103 went down in a blazing Fireball Libya meant a bad place where a comical megalomaniacal dictator was the absolute power nobody in Libya however was laughing reports of explosions clashes between riers and security forces in 2011 what was previously Unthinkable happened the Libyan people rose up and fought for their freedom heavy battles raging around bivian Capital they fought like hell the rebels are about to force qaddafi's complete departure and they recorded the whole thing on their cell phones took through this beautiful world felt the on my [Applause] shoulder found something good in this beautiful world I felt the rain getting CER [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] it's amazing arriving here after all you see on TV these days that Libya is in fact functioning at all but it is the fountains across from the Cornish are operating traffic Works kind of at the Rison club sandwiches arrive on time in the lobby the occasional Flash of camo and a security scanner are really the only discordant notes you don't want to take the video oh the don't [Music] okay inside the old part of the city men slaughter a camel while a girl records it with her [Music] iPad no okay you say no kids are setting off fireworks in the Medina [Music] incoming tomorrow is the prophet Muhammad's birthday and people who have not known freedom for nearly 50 years are ready to [Music] celebrate martyr square is filled with families kids teenage skater boys and Hot Shots on motorcycles it's wild oh and almost giddy [Applause] happy man young men in the camouflage pants of the militias most of whom were civilians until last year do their best to sporadically keep order or just join in the fun every kid above the age of five seems to been is a lighter and a fist full of fireworks ambulances idle on the margins of the square to treat fireworks related injuries of which there will be many that was good [Music] this is Tripoli after 42 years of Nightmare how to build a whole society overnight and make it work in one of the most contentious and difficult areas of the world is what people are trying to figure out [Music] so before the war did you think it would ever be possible did you dream someday this will change no and time we cannot say a word you get killed that's it it was impossible but then I joined the group you know right the Revolutionary Omar is Young and was even younger when the fighting started he like so many libyans from around the country and many who had left heated the calls for revolution on Facebook and Twitter they fought in Tripoli Benghazi bada and everywhere in between who won this war young people or everybody everybody but the young people they started them what was your day like as a revolutionary you keep one thought in your mind you do this for the Next Generation for a better country for a better life you have a future now before people you know f g we're not going it we were slaves for the GFI oh this looks good yeah it Barracuda is a seafood restaurant just outside of town on the Mediterranean Coast one of the best foods in liia I think the see4 the menu is not printed on paper it's laid out right there for you on ice we have uh dot here what do they do they just grill that yeah they open and Grill it some garlic some sauce it's really awesome you pick out the stuff that interests you from the daily catch okay let's get one of these one of these some shms calamari too and they cook it for you the way you want Oh [Music] beautiful wow that's delicious this is the stuffed k Mar Libyan Style with so many Seafood stuffed inside it like a turkey good sauce wow man we are living large today yes we are B so what were you doing before the War I was a travel agent you were a travel agent yes and I was studying too Medical School many of the people who started the revolution who fought in the streets with makeshift weapons were like Omar medical students garage mechanics or simply teenagers they transformed themselves in a matter of months from kids playing PlayStation to harden Fighters and field Medics nobody believed that he can be removed really extraordinary yeah how quickly after the uprising started did you begin to think that wow this is possible that we we might actually win the first day when that prize first day yeah the day before you're thinking impossible we'll be stuck with this son of a [ __ ] forever and then a few hours later it's like wow this might work seeing groups with you going toward the the Mortal Square demanding their rights at that moment you feel that you can do anything that this you can you can this can this is going to happen if if didn't well I've died trying doing it at least we've died like men doing it [Music] so much has changed around town so much is changing new music graffiti these things they mean [Music] something Allah centuries of strict social and religious values keep some things solidly the same alcohol for instance is strictly forbidden men and women follow hierarchal roles as before since the revolution there's a tug-of-war over what is [Music] acceptable outside a mosque in the Medina men fill the Narrow Street to celebrate Muhammad's birthday [Applause] [Music] [Applause] snacks are passed around women watch and record from the rooftops [Music] [Applause] [Music] there aren't a lot of conflicts in the world where there's a clear bad guy clearly there was a bad guy here exactly I mean the one thing about Gaddafi is he believ D he was the most important human being almost that had ever existed I mean he changed the names of the months he changed the date of the Islamic calendar such uh Megamania and as you well know anyone outside you mentioned the word Libya everyone would just say GFI Gaddafi stole the identity of Libya Michelle cousins is the co-founder of the English language paper the Libya Herald and has known several different libas in his lifetime for so long the news has been the personality Gaddafi turned up to open a shopping center Gaddafi turned up to open an envelope those of us who knew Libya who knew that was another Libya wonderful people we would talk about it as you talk about a dead person do you remember this do you remember that and then in February 2011 suddenly there was Resurrection the dead came back to life we meet at a Libyan Coffee House a traditional male only sort of a joint Cafe culture is Big here a hold over from the days of Italian colonization when musolini tried to rebuild Rome's long-lost Empire it's just been the most amazing experience seeing the rebirth of a country of a people I mean last night's fireworks but there was a general sense of exuberance bordering on Anarchy I mean I felt very happy there last night uh if if someone in Peril yeah it's Christmas it's it's whatever it's the fourth of July rolled into one but it also there are people who are trying to stop it of Puritans extremists you want to say militants and what has happened is people have come out in defiance of that they're showing we want to have fun and remember for a long time in Libya you couldn't have fun the biggest misconception is that the place is turning into another Afghanistan on Iraq where you've got bombs go off attacks but it's not as you've seen libyans have gone through an awful time having fought for freedom people have died people have struggled and that's going to hold them [Music] together kids are selling fireworks across from the Marcus aelius Arch one is constantly reminded that Libya was one a vital part of the ancient Roman Empire that was nearly 2,000 years [Applause] ago tonight I was told was going to be an even bigger Wilder celebration in martyr square but something has happened since last night the British foreign office has just told all UK citizens to leave Benghazi Libya's second largest city due to an unspecified threat EAS the Libyan government such as it is has denied any basis for such drastic action a lone Cherry Bomb now and again an awkward flurry of Roman candles the buzz of last night's chaotic partying harshed Big Time whether or not this is a result of the larger geopolitical situation the vibe towards this Western film crew seems apprehensive uncertain the following day feels better somewhat fresh produce is for sale on Triple E streets if you're a small restaurant or shopping for a big family you bring cash a wheelbarrow and load up with what you need but revolution has brought changed tastes libyans especially young libyans Hunger for More Than Just Freedom they hunger for places like this Kentucky Fried Chicken Uncle Kentucky Fried chickeny okay the colonel and his buddies the king and the clown have not quite made it here given the uncertainty of the situation so in the meantime place like this have been popping up Uncle Kentucky [Applause] [Music] awesome do you know where Kentucky is that the Kentucky is from USA the part yeah yeah this place is new yeah he's new before get he yeah now it's normal oh that's nice how you found it spicy delicious bah bah johar like many libyans his age fought to overthrow Gaddafi he was there gun in hand when they storm gfi's Palace compound happy excited a good day yeah he giv it to me a nice feeling nice feeling the Gaddafi is called my cousin how you should be feeling exactly I feeling good because I want to kill them I I don't want I don't want say anyone die more he's called for nothing the first time I think the people is bad but he's he's leave me do that because if I don't kill him he's kill me right it's nice to see Freedom it's nice to see the bad guy gone it's nice I feel welcome here finally we say no for him he's now die that's where you really wanted to johar a few pieces of greasy Fried Chicken eaten in a brightly colored fast food setting means something more than a calorie bomb that's we why fighting that's we why give a lot of blood from my country because I wanted feeling that the test of Freedom the taste of Freedom it's nice taste [Music] good good good [Music] food outside Triple E Center there's this onetime access of all power and Untold evil a huge complex of sinister offices Barracks residences on top of a rabbit warrant of secret tunnels and underground facilities the Bob alazia Gaddafi's enormous [Music] compound most everything belonging to or associated with Gaddafi was [Music] destroyed NATO continually bombs strategic location within the compound and on August 23rd 2011 it fell to the rebels Gaddafi and his family having fled this is what's left of Gaddafi's Palace [Music] [Music] so when's the last time you were here last time re Revolution is finish it the machine is going first fighting after done the people who have the guns after that coming a lot of people normal people listenting about something expensive here in like the Sal and like the gold and stop stop now stop now what they want us to stop filming right now okay while talking we didn't notice several pickup trucks of local militia had closed in on us I've stopped I've stopped you say relax relax relax relax what's this is their turf or their area of operation or somehow under their control whatever the case they're the group in charge today an argument ensues between our guys and their guys all of whom fought against the same forces on this ground a year ago ask you guys to step that side you have to delete what you've got let's leave okay okay let's Go's go go go go [Music] it hold it down hold it [Music] down Libya is denying that there is an imminent threat to the safety of westerners in Benghazi this follows Britain's advice on Thursday that westerners should get out of the city warning of a specific and imminent threat if you follow the news you'll be reminded about how the lack of centralized power in the wake of the 2011 conflict has seen an increase in Islamic militancy in Libya westerners and libyans are still very concerned with the what you see is not encouraging kidnappings in Algeria unrest in Mali Terror riots in Egypt and of course extremist attacks in Benghazi that killed the US ambassador all those things are very real concerns but if you only look at what's on the news you can miss maybe what's a bigger picture another morning in Tripoli and life goes on vendors are out people go about their daily [Music] routines this is our traditional breakfast what is this dish called which is an overstretched donnut I suppose right with an egg with an egg on top what's a little pancake they put on top that's just to hold the egg in just to hold the egg in it's it's like a a hat for it or a cover or something you can get them with cheese you can get them with chili paste you can have them with honey with sugar what do you how do you like yours uh I like mine cooked to be honest what's the name of this neighborhood uh this is FES LOM this is a cradle of the Revolution right now this was the first neighborhood to rise up yes this is the first place to rise up why do you think this neighborhood and not it's an impoverished neighborhood it's been always lied to by this regime they made them feel like they are not from this country to be honest we start with this and we go for it oh yeah dip it right in the egg and dip it in the egg delicious so where were you when it all started I was in London well actually in Manchester at the time what and by the 27th I was in Libya we went out to uh see his house yesterday with the compound I was one of the guys who entered from the southern Gates oh Northern Gates acram is in the security business a thriving industry here as you could probably imagine a lot of things happen in a lot of different parts of the country sort of simultaneously kind of amazing that all of these people came together very fast how did it happen yeah easy Twitter Twitter yeah it was really like that yes we sent so much information to Nato via Twitter we get a phone call from Triple E or Bazi or whatever we get the coordinates via Google Earth right we verify that there is a location there that needs to be hit send a tato at eato and then it's gone really yeah how does that feel knowing you can call in a Tomahawk missile over there it's out of the movies did anyone think it was possible that in their lifetime they were going to see the end of this son of a [ __ ] most people are telling me they never dream I I don't know if you can call them dreams hopes wishes it was just something in the sky something I look at every night right but when I hit that point and got into masata and stood on Gaddafi's body Any Dream Will Come True what's the situation now uh it's fluid it can swing any direction well look what happened in moghazi a few months ago I mean what does this mean to the country I think there is a dark mysterious hand who doesn't like this country to prosper they see system and organization as a enemy to them these AR hands are slowly getting diminished it's a matter of time before we can get rid of them how hard do you think that's going to be not hard at all we got rid of KFI nothing else is hard I like your attitude the fluid situation in Libya has been intensifying since our arrival and we've had to change our Behavior constantly moving should I be wearing you know one of those cool like journalist Safari jackets at this point so it seemed a good time or maybe not s up to go to Mada just watch this your on it yeah okay guys we can go Roger since the revolution misada has been the most secure City in Libya but over the last 2 weeks in a hail of bullets and hand thrown grenade Attacks An Imam security forces and a police officer have all been killed once we move forward you come past me along the narrow congested highway there are checkpoints banned mostly by local militias and I want to stress most of them are friendly enough we are however in a hurry to get to misada before dark traveling at night around here is not advised [Music] I would drop the camera Prett y stop the camera pulling into town after dark it doesn't feel like a happy place to be right now Mis is where some of the fiercest and most heroic struggles of the war occurred resistance was the most determined and the response by the Gaddafi forces especially merciless we've just learned that earlier in the day A city councilman who was a hero of the Revolution was assassinated and it's not clear who's responsible M Rada is on Full lockdown looking around at the price this city paid for Freedom you can see why they don't want to lose what they fought so hard for [Music] morning in misada how's the vibe it's all quite quiet and and coill at the moment daylight reveals the extent of the fighting that took place here not so long [Music] ago this here used to be a vegetable market clothes one of Gaddafi soldiers clothes he left them here and ran yeah cuz that what what they did in triple when we enter the city they just moved their clothes and ran away in the streets so nobody would know who are they this is Hamid one of the guys we called the misada boys basically militia members from the area who looked out for us here and in Tripoli when things started to get hinky in neighboring Algeria and in Benghazi seriously up tank his job these days is hunting down former Gaddafi supporters so the Gaddafi forces rolled in they would use these tanks to fire on around the city around yeah it was full of uh tanks here this was the operation room here [Music] [Music] now if you had any doubt about the terrible odds these young revolutionaries were facing during the early days of the fighting especially in the months before NATO came in with air support check out mada's War Museum what did this fire it's fire a rocket hemade and there's a rocket here we put it here and fire with the you had to have some serious courage to to ride around with this thing why we trust people there's a lot of homemade things here this is homemade too it fires big rocket this is grad homemade this one this was from uh helicopter we got it and we brought in the cars you took it off a helicopter and you put it on a car uhhuh and you know what this is for you know Molotov and so it's basically a crossbow that fires Molotov cocktail Molotov and TNT sometimes you're shooting this as people who have uh mortars uh tank tanks tanks you're shooting this at tanks yeah cuz that's what we got at the time it's what you had man it's it's awesome then the next present of Libya the one is going to be in Char right this is his chair he has to think twice before he sits on it so never screw your people yeah never screw your people I I remember and here these are Gaddafi stuff now this was all taken from the compound some of them from s it's mixed that's his AK his chair preferred hair products his shaving kit see he is wearing a mask oh his Beauty mask yeah I can use some of that it'si he's beautiful you [Music] know and this is the first Mar in mrata that's the first yeah that's the first one who was he not like a businessman no no no just a normal guy they went out to protest the first rally and somebody came in and shoot him so the next day the whole city came out that's when everything started these are photos of those killed during the uprising combatants and bystanders alike her name is ma Jam she was six years when she died shelled in their homes tortured to death in prisons shot by snipers look at this kid he died with the victory sign they killed him like with a grenade that's his lucky day yeah you know what he was saying he was saying what's going on guys why why why my my sons why why are you doing that you still have the T-shirt yeah yeah with the blood in it [Music] do you know any of these people yeah I know a couple of them I knew come this this guy is Egyptian not even his fight but he can but he didn't want to leave four of them they died in s and this died in tripol these are brothers and sister 1 2 3 4 they died in the same day and the same house and the mother when we found her she was holding the kid they were both dead like and holding each other it was like very sad moment [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] corner you notice I'm going full Blitzer on this shoot the Mediterranean Sea defines Libya's northern border in Shacks built along the coast people get together on weekends to do what people do everywhere in the world in one form or another since the beginning of society like barbecue who does not like barbecue here he is they sure like him here chase down an animal kill it cycle of Life cut it into pieces and throw it on a flame so all these people are Freedom Fighters ex Freedom Fighters right so just now chill having fun making barbecue to start they Grill the lamb in small pieces with a few veggies not a beer but something like it I've been about a week without alcohol of any kind and I'm enjoying my my new clean living lifestyle uh balls balls yeah that's Hospitality I've said it before I'll say it again barbecue may not be the road to World Peace but but it's a start are good yeah relax yeah laidback in in American laid back a stew made of kidneys liver and heart served family style feel free to eat with hands a right hand only please and a really traditional thing left over from the Italians basically pasta with Ragu what's this dish called when it's the sound mean it's ready oh yeah yeah it's good so the Italians left you one good thing a few nice buildings and Basta I'm Basta so the story of misada the story of Libya seems to be ordinary people suddenly called upon to do extraordinary things where were you when war broke out I was in Canada in Montreal you're studying medicine yes Dr Jihan put her medical studies on hold to help tend all manner of horrible war injuries what kind of procedures were you doing on a regular basis everything everything without prior practice and knowledge so you just like kind of in the situation trying to pick up things how how many patients did you treat a day 60 70 60 a lot like the whole full like the whole hospital was full when you heard he'd been killed what what did you feel relief I I felt relieved I was like realizing that okay it's over I'm trying to heal my own wounds because in the middle of it you just go go go and you never realize how much injuries and Trauma you got inside yourself cuz before you never think of like we're going to survive and we're going to have a free liia or anything it's just like going with the state of mind that I'm going to do my best and I'm ready in peace with myself if I die and then you find yourself here now it's like now it's the great area xihan risked her life along with the men but traditional and high-bound rules of conduct do not allow her to sit with them during dinner she's relegated to what might be called the Kids Table what can one say we who like to think of ourselves as more enlightened in this area I don't know rightly or wrongly I said nothing what does freedom mean I don't know that either I guess for sure it does mean the freedom to enjoy an afternoon no one thought possible only a little while ago the freedom at least to joke to laugh to be for a while relatively Carefree [Music] [Music] the road to Tripoli a healthy breakfast ooh liver sandwich they talk about a high-risk environment I think they were talking about this that's [Music] good halfway back to Tripoli the Magnificent ruins of lepus [Applause] Magna arguably the most intact remains of a Roman City in the [Music] [Applause] world it's worth noting that at one time the Emperor of all Rome was himself Libyan was pretty amazing born right [Music] here someone chipped off all the dicks not that I was [Music] looking anywhere else in in the world this place would be overrun with tourists but look no one you're free to wander As You Wish quite a backdrop you know if you're seeing a little dinner theater production of our town a couple thousand years [Music] ago not bad the only other visitors today are a troop of Libyan Boy Scouts bizarrely enough Gaddafi himself was once a scout in this was one of the only organizations allowed to remain independent of the government maybe I should go down there and introduce myself to my former comrades exchange some boy scout lore yes yes I was once a Boy Scout too hello drilled into their heads is something that was long ago drilled into mine I promise to be trustworthy loyal helpful friendly courteous kind obedient cheerful Thrifty Brave clean and reverent [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] you know it's been a really difficult shoot for a whole lot of reasons it's not easy to shoot [Music] here but in spite of all that for me this was a happy show it's Libya they were supposed to be the bad guys a Bad Country filled with bad people right I don't think so I met a lot of really nice people here nobody's saying we're going to be perfect tomorrow everybody seems to be saying you know in five see us look at us in 5 years that giv a pretty reasonable attitude love you Olivia this is a place that's fill a lot of extraordinary people who've done an extraordinary thing on very short notice under very difficult circumstances and at a very difficult time who are continuing to do the best they can and I wish them well