Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown S01E08 2013 1080p WEB DL H264 AAC DDHDTV

Peru is a country that's historically driven men mad mad for gold for kocoa for its magical ancient history but now there's something else drawing Outsiders to its hidden mountain valleys we love the stuff we obsess about it gorge on it and fetishize it I'm talking about chocolate once a common treat it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine making the pursuit of the raw good stuff all the more difficult I'm joining that hunt in remotest Peru but not before I've reimmersed myself in the booming Lima food [Music] scene I took a walk there is beautiful world felt theang on my [Applause] shoulder found something good in this beautiful world I felt the rain getting troller [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] I'm in Peru with this guy Eric repair guy he was looking at as he went into the tree that's funny chef of the world famous restaurant Le Bernarda in New York to look at where chocolate comes from particularly our chocolate a very expensive limited run designer Chate cholate bar business that Eric got me into last year so that's why we're in Peru but before we get all Indiana Jones we're spending some time in Lima as we like the capital city just fine and we have both of us from previous trips friends here Lima is the cultural Hub and culinary capital of a country that has exploded in the last decade with scores of worldclass chefs cooks and restaurants it has long been considered to be one of the best food scen in all of South America let's do it how Power Ra the housing that's it so yeah 5 minutes one of our friends here is Chef restur K oo he's one of the best most successful chefs in the country his family is something of a beloved culinary Dynasty in Peru and pusana a small fishing Village about an hour south of Lima is where they spend their weekends [Music] K's mom Marissa jolal is like Peru's Julia Child James Beard rolled in a one thank you for having us a caterer cookbook author beloved icon of Peruvian Gastronomy this is the Yuka oh yeah I'm going in to say one is fortunate to enjoy her Hospitality would be an understatement go s oh yes yeah definitely warm generous welcoming beyond belief B you have to leave so soon yeah normally we we have lunch late no like do you nap before lunch or after both no no sounds like paradise wow look at this every weekend Marissa opens the house to an everchanging mob of friends visitors drop-ins and family this is fantastic they do not skimp on the food delicious delicious things pour out of the kitchen wow a torrent a deluge of traditional Peruvian favorites this is a g with crab meat the yellow potato and avocado we love avocado CA dejo is like a tarine of crab meat eggs avocado and mashed yellow potatoes okay this ISO from the co beautiful tiito de basically raw Kingfish filets dressed with AI Amaro and lime juice perfect and that's SC of cich cich for sure saiche deas fresh scallops and lemon juice garlic and AI Lio drumfish braised in Chichi Deora a corn-based beer they look fantastic Roto spicy or not this is very spicy very spicy oh that sounds good oh and stuffed Roto Peppers filled with ground beef and raisins served with paria cheese wow are we lucky or what we lucky and that's just the beginning there's so much more food there's no way we can show it all much less describe it it's incredible overwhelming invariably fresh and delicious and thrillingly different than what I'm used to yeah it's fantastic I can frankly get out of the chocolate business right now put up a pup tent on Marissa's porch and pretty much dig in for the duration this is living those little fish are amazing they're so fresh I want to be her next door neighbor it's incredible so good so has Peruvian cuisine always been this diverse and this delicious and we're just discovering it or has it changed over the last 15 years it's changing anyway but you know what you're eating now it's the traditional food there's so many products in Peru that are unfamiliar to people in the states when you eat this food it's not like well this is something like no there's it's not really it's not kind of like anything it's it's really all there is a lot of ingredients good ingredients all year round the voto is very good what do you do when you're homesick for Peruvian food and you're traveling there's really we take some always some chilies with us in the you know the luggage we're the perfect Smugglers I believe you do it man I hate to say goodbye to this but it is what it is things to do places to go wild and apparently extremely rare cacao trees to visit incredible meal so happy [Music] [Applause] all I can say is if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip it's going to be [Music] [Applause] okay Lima city of Kings home to a third of Peru's people locals Escape by hanging out at the beach and why not when you can maybe get a tattoo while you're at it is that [Music] sanitary you've been here before oh yeah man I take Eric's suggestion we head over to see Chef Javier Wong the uniqu non-conformist Seafood specialist famous for his incredible and uncompromising ceviches and his flaming walk if Peru has a national dish it's probably ciche the freshest fish only needs the right cut a little Citrus and no [Music] heat what's the most common thing that people do wrong the quality of the ingredients you don't do a svich with something that is not Ultra fresh right the cut is very important the thickness right and when you do the svich you don't do it too much ahead of time the whole place is served whatever menu he's doing that day same for everybody and today the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice so that's what we're getting generally thicker pieces to stand up to the spices and acids first up an octopus and Flounder Ceviche I don't know what to tell you man them good M oh this is good is this one very spicy or not you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it yeah me neither I don't like paint except except it is pained with a pepper brutalized with a pepper I like that's that's really hook pedito a flounder dressed with pecans lime ail Lio and sesame oil which clearly Eric likes oh this is totally going to oh really yeah so you're not like foraging and the cats skills for your inspiration you basically just rip your ideas off of small businessmen okay oh superb you want another little thing sure CRA Chinese and Japanese immigrants came to Peru in great numbers in the 19th and 20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers and their influence is felt here particularly in the food to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent it's that influence in the ingredients of Amazonia and the Andes that really distinguishes the food here as something special W what is this a tofu uh no Fresco no this is a very cookie combination I mean is that pineapple where' that come from that's not traditional I mean it looks Asian to me right so I believe is probably uh dude his name is wan I mean unless he's a retired porn star this shouldn't be good but it is we're going to have a sweat on that one yeah I might have a couple more beers after this P get sour and then have a nice nap midday [Music] nap one more day in Lima the chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school it's a special cocktail that we prepare here it has a kind of we on the jungle it has kantro kantro kantro is like cilantro and but it's long leaves and it's much more powerful in flavor it would be wrong to not point out that Peru along with Brazil is at the Forefront of a movement celebrating the incredible and unique Luder of ingredients from the Andes and the Amazon flavors you find no place else on Earth there seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade in the Amazon because it's an amazing spectrum of entirely new to most of us uh flavors and ingredients Pedro Escapo is at The Cutting Edge of exactly that territory his restaurant amas explores the rivers the ocean the landscape of Peru highlighting a range of products that are stunning in their diversity and to us anyway their newness wow this one is you got bread fruit tuna and the cashew sauce that is with plantain vinegar that's a cashew fruit and so the nut is a fruit and in Brazilian here we use the pentol as a fruit we make this scallops with a wild almond the Almond is very very soft like the flavor of it it compliment really well and this one is freshwater shrimp dashy made of tarot and a fresh water shrimp M whole different flavor Spectrum right all know it's almost like you need a new section of your tongue it must be so exciting because they have basically an amazing garden with the Amazon oo that looks good this is a soup made of hen with peanuts and corn and it's called inapi like of the food I've enjoyed these cocktails too cashew Karas are we going to be wasted yeah we'll be fine oh wellow so this is also tradition this is called tashka they season the fish they put it on the leaf and they cook it the fish is catfish in the Amazon we have like 200 types of catfish makes in flavor from the leaf too and here we have a Pye it's the second biggest freshwater fish in the world underneath you have a puree of au that is a p fruit and the sauce is a reduction of fermented wild manuk or Yuka fermented yeah this is how you say toxic or poisonous poisonous yeah yeah so they let it ferment and it becomes you can eat it these fish are unbelievable when you see them they get up to like 600 lb and they're swimming in water no deeper than a rice Patty really giant they're like dinosaur fish everyone has been saying for years that Peru is going to be the next big thing as far as restaurants and it is this really prove it and we have a Chili Pepper made with rasil nuts and these are ants wow they're huge they're huge ants okay you think I should try yeah yeah totally you're not loving that are you no imagine you took a lot of acid and then you ate that whole bowl of ants and then you go home and you experience violent di area and like you're tripping it's like 4:00 in the morning and you turn around and you look at the toilet and like all these ant heads floating around in there it'll be cool yeah it will be super coolon I can't wait [Music] so now that we've confirmed what we already knew that Peru's food is unequivocally awesome it seems proper that we take a trip back in time to meet the forebears of this country's Rich cultural Legacy the larco Herrera Museum in Lima has a massive collection of pre-colombian artifacts and looking at them you get an idea of of what these ancient peoples were like how they lived wow I mean this is like the real stuff I think so wow right I mean it's the yeah gold necklaces you see why the Spanish just freaked out when they came here turned into like maniacal weed heads but history does not have to be boring it can be sexy I don't know whether you knew this but I am an afficionado of early erotica of pre-colombian and post Colombian eras you know like Pottery of people doing it yeah I should have known that turns out things could get pretty interesting back in the day oh yeah those guys could get crazy get wild and apparently very kinky the erotic Gallery oh there you go that's a conversation starter I take Eric to the pre-colombian boning section actually the erotic Pottery section slip under the tongue amazing which sounds about as much fun as an allnew renaissance fair but is actually pretty cool nothing new Under the Sun that these pre-colombian horn dogs didn't think of first oo that's man and chicken I'm not sure I understand this one Tony I think we frown on that these [Music] days oh wow they they're doing it under a blanket this must be after the Spanish arrived to teach them sh name ooh skeletons with boners they are zombies oh getting a zombie oldfashioned yesy oh you really appreciate your knowledge I wonder whether this was decorative or whether this was really porn they probably had it in a closet somewhere or something I'm betting this was right out on the table come on in have a cup of tea sit down here's some animalon animal action it's pretty awesome uh yeah no this is interesting yeah I'm happy we made it uh here Tony that was an enlightening moment [Music] something about steamy XX pre-colombian erotica always makes me hungry luckily at night Lima comes alive with the smell and the familiar enticing sound of sizzling meat it's time for delicious screamingly hot garlicky spicy flavor jacked Street Meats and as anybody who knows me is well aware I love me some street meat the street ping in peruse is starting to disappear disapp really why because you know they neighbors they go the neighbors complain complain our friend C brought us to this place a street stall named for the lady who runs the joint they specialize in one thing beefart anticuchos anticuchos is catch one for skewered meat this stuff they say goes back all the way to the Incas and was as immediately popular with the Spanish kador as it is today oh that looks good which is to say I must have some damn traditionally a mix of beef hearts and other animal parts chicken hearts they're like GS and there tribe right marinated in garlic cumin and onion maybe a little vinegar oh yeah grill that up and pile it high these are not small portions these people getting these mountains of food okay rolling the sauce the sauce let's go to the sauce it does not get any better voila do [Music] it man that's awesome yeah be part yeah that is some magical right there sal sal it's very garlicky the marinade is nice po poo chicken that is seriously tasty delici when is the beef heart and the chicken heart is a the texture is so nice and it's hot really come on a [Music] little all right I'm maxed out really [Music] delicious [Music] excellent the city of Chayo lies about 400 miles Northwest of Lima it's Peru's fourth largest city with over a half a million people living there it's our next stop the staging area for our trip to the mountains to find araa chocolate I mean we know we like this stuff but how is it made where does it come from Columbus was the first European to encounter cacao beans on a Mayan trading canoe off the coast of Honduras he's said to have grabbed both crew and cargo and brought them back to Spain a few decades later a Spanish conquistador Hernando Cortez came across Aztec using the sacred beans at a drink it was considered the drink of the Gods like most expensive delicious things from abroad the largely inbred and frequently syphilitic European royalty did their best to keep what was fast becoming a craze for hot chocolate to themselves but it soon found its way to America and in 1765 the first chocolate factory opened in New England [Music] jao's main Market is a massive One-Stop shop for all things chocolate as well as just about everything else Under the Sun ooh wow man you got your animal skulls W that's tempting carecut uh I'm good wow c those are the raw beans and that one is the toasted to and then she grinds it and then she put it in a mold [Music] gracias better not sweet at all huh no they don't put [Music] sugar actually here we are in the area of the market I I believe where they have what they call Santas ah repair is how shall I put it well let's just say he's got more of a spiritual side than me so it's all the ingredients that you need for the shaman to um to bless the Harvest of the caca okay so he's got us shopping for what I guess you'd call shamanic supplies which place are we going to I like the lady with the sunglasses right like to Medical medicinal herbs the supposed magical properties and stuff for this Shaman dude to bless us and our caca C this one is amazing it smells really good and it supposedly purify the house yeah smells like hippie no but it's interesting the shamans are very very well respected in the Inca culture and in the region they cure everything they do ceremonies good yeah I think we good our journey continues by Road as we leave Cho and head east towards the Andes so supposedly if you go 2 hours North from here you have like the Indians who welcome you with the little all the blow darts yeah but before we get too deep into the mountains we're stopping off to meet our Shaman he's going to teach us how to do the bath for the plants and for us okay that it's a metor stone he's cleaning all the negative [Music] vibrations close your eyes he cleaned you and he wish you a lot of [Music] success little bit more especially in the back in the neck the back that's it here yeah on the chest a little bit like that yeah we wanted a blessing for our cacao Harvest we got this my aura is now cleaner than gwineth Pal's colon after a 3month juice cleanse to a successful Harvest but we're not done we got to transport this stuff to our trees and finish the job ourselves I know you're not going to believe it but the energy has changed here I'm serious I'm not J I'm not joking listen I'm not disbelieving I have an open mind [Music] Eric and I are heading to the marinan canyon 8 hours by car from Cho well into the andian [Music] highlands on the way we stopped for lunch and a meet up with this guy you want Chris curtain master chier and our business partner in this knuckleheaded adventure one of life's great Joys eating in a Peruvian Market I love markets for breakfast it's nice so so de basically a hen soup that's good where in the world does chocolate come from well 45% of course come from I Coast in Africa but we don't deal in those beans just because of political situations there is this stuff the special chocolate yeah and which pretty much what we're here to look at yes absolutely where where where it comes from what's involved Eric ate some of Chris's chocolate heard about these wild caca trees he was sourcing from in Peru and promptly got me involved in this designer chocolate bar business I'm rather famously a guy I don't really I never really gave it about desserts you on the other hand you you are you eat chocolate every day yeah every day and so here we are three men and a chocolate bar good thing for the world exploitative opportunism yet to be determined what do I after all know about chocolate next to freaking nothing it's good like that right like Oliver Twist there yeah we used to eat it like that in the [Music] orphanage the marinan canyon we're headed to meet some of the farmers who fly the beans that make our chocolate and to get me an education in all things cacao the roads up into these mountains can be tricky so we got to take care of the local vigilante dudes who run a roadblock here outside of town it looks like a Shakedown but they're a welcome sight this hill where cars have to slow down was where all sorts of highw women and misre ANS used to waylay Travelers like us so these guys stepped in to take care of business wow that was a big shotgun that'll that'll shoot through an engine block actually I don't really know but I'm assuming at this time of year there's also the rain and mud which can mean flooded streets and streams that cut right across the roads and there's this the river in the best of circumstances a fairly adventurous way to get your vehicles across a long line across a fast moving current the ferry propelled only by the flow of water but today the river is too high and the current too fast river running a little high if these smaller boats or nothing we're dealing with complex Transportation issues best thing to do is uh pull up with a cold beer and let somebody else figure it out yeah so let's go on the boat to my crew I say good luck we're headed for what looks like a bar on the other side we like to go to Punta seresa for February and let me tell you it's quite a ride I I'll go the last yeah hey water inside the boat look look look the boat is sinking [Music] [Music] you got to go down and then up just right we make it to the other side reasonably dry beer the marinan canyon is home to a wide range of species in including and most interesting to us a strain of cacao previously thought to be almost extinct a few years ago the Valley's cacao trees were genetically tested at a USDA lab and proven to have identical DNA to one of the rarest forms of cacao in the world this stuff the real deal pure [Music] National Don Fortunato is our caca connection a farmer whose family has been working these mountains for over 40 years they're just absolutely beautiful when they start out Absol really cooky look at pods is they just come right off the trunk of the tree they sort of look like somebody you know glued them to the side of a tree you know is this a once a year crop it goes continuously but this is the peak season see the way it comes out try that take one in your mouth bite it and you see those the nibs inside those are the cocon nibs so where does chocolate come from the bean okay here's where chocolate comes from the trees produce pods you split open the pods and take out the beans the buyer Sundries the beans then roasts them after roasting the beans are extracted from their shells and ground up producing chocolate liquor mix this concentrate with milk sugar cocoa butter and you get what we call Commercial chocolate now our chocolate bar sells for a nose bleed price that's high by even premium chocolate standards so where does the money go and most importantly to me and Eric are we doing a good thing here's how it breaks down the rock a cow costs one chunk labor the inner sleeve this much design box packaging this much various sunry equipment and miscellaneous another small chunk Chris me and Eric each get a slice out of every bar that leaves this much which the retailer takes Chef bleeding heart hippie here has already convinced me to give whatever meager profits we make off our first bar to a local charity so what's unusual about these pods these beans extremely high quality flavor thought not around for a while this was what almost all chocolate was made of over 120 years ago and now it's C making a a giant comeback I mean as a chocolate here this is a once in a lifetime to find now about 40% of the beans from these trees have got white cacao beans mixed in the rest are purplish in color but we've heard of an ultra rare group of trees elsewhere further up the mountains that produce pods with 100% All Pure white beans and that's something me and Eric are very interested in down the road but for now Don fortunato's daughter Johanna has prepared us a traditional Peruvian mountain meal wow oh wo jues Juanes are rice dumplings with boiled egg chicken and aote inside wow this is amazing and not surprisingly some koi or guinea pig of which there seems to be many around for the taking this preparation served with a cacao sauce oh that's good all of this food is delicious so chocolate particularly our chocolate it's luxury food item yes right this is an area that's abundant with coffee chocolate fruit how's life for the [Music] locals he says that 20 years ago 25 years ago it was easier for him he was planting soybeans right and coffee and he was making much more money and then he didn't plant soybeans any longer and then the coffee production went down so therefore had a financial struggle for a while and now with the cacao trees that they are planting he has no more stress and he's fairly happy [Music] himself I'm in the marinan canyon of Peru with my friend and partner in chocolate bars Chef Eric repair Eric and I are intrigued by these ultra rare allh beans we heard about from Don fortunado so we set up a meeting with another farmer Don edilberto elsewhere in the [Music] Valley now we thought it would be a nice gesture give it all the high test culinary Talent between us to make him and his family dinner in return for his Hospitality what are you thinking look what they have squabs squabs butterfly marinade Grill we couldn't do that but we have this nice sausage here they have sausage which would be nice to throw into a stew Teresa chicken onion maybe some peppers little bit of spice I'm taking chisso and and potatoes so we're kind of moving into the Spanish what's it called uh zarua but uh Zar and we can even use shrimp from the guy shrimp and chicken works that sounds like a [Music] plan you have 24 yeah successful uh yeah so far but wait until uh we arrive there it's going to be interesting oh don't be a downer man I'm optimistic we arrive at the village where the fabled white cow beans are said to be growing and meet with The Village's unofficial mayor and our cow farmer Don aded Alberto who will lead us to the trees okay we're going to follow him what was depicted as a short walk up a slight incline turns out to be an epic hump up one Hill after another when you're tired you tell us we stop okay when I slump to the ground and urinate all over myself that'll be a tip that I probably want to stop another reason I hate the Swiss mountains I love mountains Eric who grew up in the pyres is up the slopes like a gazelle me I feel every year of my misspent life with every step oh jeez oh are we there yet no no no we're not there it's a baby he's rafting because he has only 22 trees I wish I could hear you over the side of my exploding capillaries okay by the time we get near the fabled trees I'm toast gasping for air ready to puke from the altitude and the [Music] exertion so tell us again what's unique about these trees it's because they're all white beans which is a rarity so these are the only known all white 100% pure n okay and why is that good it's a new variety and gives different uh flavor profiles to it a good flavor profile yes I'm assuming because I just humped up a big mother excuse me [Music] kid oh nice cat sh [Music] don't your fingers man okay I got it yeah that's it there we go I'm forel all white remember the shaman well we still have stuff to do with that package he gave us we do presumably want a good crop better get right with the spirit world oh oh jeez to me a little Shaman juice thrown around bury the purified soil and there you go chocolate magnates well good luck dude to a good harvest don't [Music] de the trip downhill unsurprisingly is a lot easier on me time for me and Chef repair to get cooking Back to Basics wood fire ingredients from the morning market and this old school recycling system here little fella I'm ready for the chicken okay here we go and the red wine notice how I neatly maneuvered you into the [ __ ] job so now we have to make the mashed potato and we good Eric's mashed potato secret around 50% butter ah the glory that is France I think they call it gout okay let's do [Music] it canook say [Music] sometimes he's the only guy who has the white caca he asked all the farmers of The Village here to do exactly what he has done so the other farmers are starting to copy him right and he's happy because it's going to bring wealth in the village and the valley and the community afterwards doned Alberto makes a traditional unsweetened hot chocolate preparation ground cacao nibs and hot water no milk no sweeteners no nothing just like the ancient Kings liked it oh here we go gracias [Music] W the real deal only water and this is what they they really use before chocolate hit Europe this is what the azteq Kings would drink I'm a little bit jealous right now since I have no we'll get yours eventually there you go gracias Sal that's good sal sal gentlemen to uh education yes so did we do the right thing is it all right for two New Yorkers to make money however much or however little off the work of struggling farmers in a far away land fortunado Ed Alberto Chris everybody down the line all the way to the families who pick the pods off the trees seem pretty happy to be doing what they're doing but do I want to be in the chocolate business that's something I'm going to have to figure out but for now one last thing needs to be done to fulfill our shamanic obligations guys you have to get out the guy is coming with his bike and he doesn't care a bridge a bundle of eucalyptus leaves a badly working lighter got to get right smells like [Music] gja there lighter we need to burn this stuff and pass it around our bodies three times got something oh it's so too moist oh you got it man okay smoking not smoking I'm going to get it hold on I'm going to get it this is that's it now I got [Music] it let's do it [Music] okay ah yeah yeah yeah it's coming all right I got it we did it over okay done hey we have a problem with chocolate I tell you that getting into the coffee business