Trying an Assortment of Dishes in Istanbul | Full Episode | S06 E07 |Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown

[Music] modern turkey was founded in 1923 on the principles of secular Democratic statehood after centuries of Empire it has been the most turbulent year in a decade of turkey's political history turkey has set a new course one that many hoped would carry it into the European Union there's clearly a significant portion of the Turkish population that's not happy with the policies of the democratically elected government but things have changed they are changing you get a clashes erupting demonstrators throwing rocks and what happens next has implications Far Beyond turkey I took a walk through this beautiful world felt the Cool Rain on My [Applause] Shoulder found something good in this beautiful I felt the rain getting CER [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] it has been a turbulent year for turkey and I arrive in Istanbul at the moment of a critical election the question on everyone's mind is whether the current president and his ruling party will win a large enough majority to change the Constitution potentially allowing him to stay in power indefinitely these have been good times for some particularly in the construction and development business and fearful ones for others they are particularly concerned about what happens next for instance in the Kurdish parts of town [Applause] [Music] polls are open in Turkey as voters choose a new Parliament which could lead to big changes in the country's political system the ruling Justice and development part is expected to take most of the seats but how much power the president actually has will be determined by the success or failure of the Kurdish party the hdp originally a Kurdish political party has sought to unite the disperate voices calling for change in response to 13 years of what has essentially been one party rule by the AKP so history whatever it might be is about to happen just in the past hour polls have closed in the country's parliamentary elections voters in Turkey have just shaken up the country's political landscape in a major way they said no to president Ria Ty erdogan and his push from more power over the Constitution the ruling AKP party did not win the majority its president had hoped for in fact they lost seats in Parliament and for the first time the pro Kurdish party gained enough votes to earn a real voice in the government [Music] [Music] [Music] up [Music] we are at the very tip of Istanbul next to the Black Sea so the ships that are going by here they're basically going to Russia I meet an old friend Esra for my first meal back in country I know you like your fish with the head and the tail I so this is perfect I ordered some Ru oh that's makes me so happy yes which is our national drink M it is Annie seed and um I am familiar with this drink all too familiar cheers now come back so since I last saw you which was 2009 2009 wow a long time ago soble looks a little different than last time I was here it looks a little more like every other City yeah well construction this seems to be a lot of that going on yes your president likes to build stuff he likes to for conc the economy going turkey is so much politicized since the last time you came like after 2011 um the daily life issues like um how many children you should have advising women not to laugh out loud in public things like this uh were actually uh suggested by the government that do you think this is coming from genuine ideological religious place or is this a political calculation I think it's um a genuine you're telling me that that current leadership is in in in his heart is genuinely opposed to alcohol women laughing in public um maybe I don't feel comfortable answering that [Music] question turkey's most famous politician Reep T Eran he is the power and has been the power in one form or another for more than a decade he is the face of turkey's ruling Justice and development party the AKP erdogan has in recent years made islamist politics mainstream and while remaining very very popular in this extremely polarized Nation cracked down hard on media political opposition free speech and of course demonstrations in 2013 the almost revolution in Turkey happened a protest to contest the proposed demolition of Istanbul's gazi Park resulted in a brutal Crackdown by the police in response ordinary Turks unconnected by any particular ideology poured into the streets with the whole world watching on social media they too were met with force in the end erdogan remained firmly in control and there were rep cussions for many who had supported the protest from that point on media social media even open discussion of issues or events became treated as hostile acts by foreign [Music] [Music] enemies autocrats in general are not famous for their sense of humor so it's no surprise that comedians in Turkey like Denise and her fiance Khan walk a perilous L are these good times to be a comedian in uh turkey it's definitely one of the best best times because our former prime minister who's my support for living we don't use the names we just call him the greatness or you know I guess they are running final the finals but all weight classes but it's basically Greco Roman wrestling just degree stuff as I understand it you can't choke with two hands only one yes but you can just slip your hand right down into some greasy ass crack and grab that's okay tell me something I want to know what are the rules of the game Turkish oil wrestling a big freaking salad covered with oiled men in leather pants giving each other spirited prolonged reach arounds oh [Music] jeez can we get rights to the Barry White Greatest Hits record or Diana Ross love hangover or is that too [Music] obvious I like to be respectful of ancient tradition but I mean the jokes write themselves and they have what there's like ropes inside or handles or where do I get a pair of those pants are some super freaky pants and did you see the Golden Belt it's good too well look it's got to be cuz I mean the pants are awesome imagine what the belt looks [Music] like does he stop yelling at some point the announcer called jger yeah and in slang means the person who talks too much it's too loud it's time for political spot change since you last obviously the mood has changed a lot which is weird because everything seem to be going so well things seem to be getting more tolerant tolerance level is so low these days people taking sides don't like the other one these people don't like our kind so what happens if someone doesn't like your job somebody in a powerful position does not like what happens depending on the degree how much he doesn't like you how much he's offended let's say he's really offended you go to jail for being a you know terrorist or eating and abetting the enemies of the state yes Enemy of the State being an enemy of the state is the most common thing you can do right now [Music] [Applause] ining for immediately [Applause] [Music] building boom or building bubble architect and city planner Murat German has been capturing Istanbul's construction boom with his camera he employs a unique method of compressing panoramas to create a striking reimagining of cityscapes reflecting perhaps more of the reality than a straight photo [Music] could I've been following what's happening in able because it's my hometown and what's happening is that the new government is basing the supposedly booming economy totally un Construction so what they uh did is they uh started to build highrise housing shopping malls and Roads and and all that but not necessarily buildings that are related to the making of culture so all this constructions is related to consumption well are these spaces needed at whatever income level will somebody be living in these buildings that's a very good question I'm asking the same question um first things first yeah we'll save the world later uh this is p by the way yeah and it's a like the Turkish version of pizza let's [Music] say pday has some similarities I mean there's cheese in it dough but it's more like a calzone maybe I don't know it's an efficient delivery vehicle for in this case ground meat cheese and onions a not so little torpedo straight from I was going to say flavor town but no that would be wrong I want to see what you do with this I want to see how you eat this and what do you do with that you dip in the egg pour it in or yeah yeah put yeah [Music] exactly uh this is cholesterol bomb we call it [Music] [Applause] there's a remarkable lack of sentimentality about really one of the most uniquely glorious looking spaces anywhere why don't they care I agree there's a lack of sentimentality and there's also a lack of uh Vision I believe long-term Vision we have very short-term Visions mostly based on U moneymaking when people look at the work do said in Islam mhm what do you want to see first of all I really value the sustainability of of a particular culture I won my work to show hey look this is what we had I think we are already losing it so why don't we stop here and maybe consider doing something else [Applause] [Music] pambe pazara long home to Tradesmen Greeks Jews and Armenians groups whose populations are these days a tiny fraction of what they once were this neighborhood like many in Istanbul is slated for redevelopment in the name of urban renewal wow look at that it's a lot of food Cesar and his family have been running a restaurant here for nearly 20 years the way that we make the food it's our own language that's the whole idea about it so the family is Armenian yes yeah uh is the food Armenian this is my mom's food whatever we eat at home authentic asnos or tradesman's restaurants are getting harder and harder to find most are family-owned businesses the kind of place where you can get a classic home style meal of traditional dishes you're clearly romantic do do you think there's there is a place in modern Istanbul for Romantics or will they slowly be crushed by modernity almost all the protesters they were in that gazi they were Romantics they K those people they use real guns but they will still continue to protest nothing else so what's the future of Armenians in Turkey will there be more Armenians in in Istanbul in 20 years or fewer of course it will be less less yes [Music] this turn towards a more conservative more islamist is this a political calculation or do you think this is generally genuinely how how people feel now it's the way that people feel now because of the the way that our de president the way that he talks it's not only political issue it's the reality itself I don't know what he has in mind uh our president but somehow he let people fed with you know hate but I believe that hate will be you know it will make our end soon that's what I'm afraid of that's why I'm telling you that young generation Our May and St will definitely leave this country wow I hope you're wrong I'd like to be I like I mean I'm not really an optimistic person but I hope you're wrong about istall cuz it's an amazing place I hope you will be the one who's right [Music] Allah give me help and not CR my car not today maybe tomorrow I have to pass this pass if I don't pass this pass W it is a long held belief that if you want to know the real deal what's really good about a town about life if you want to know where to find the good stuff you ask a cab driver I don't know right way life is life wife is wife take it easy I don't know if that's true not in my town anyway but in Istanbul I know a cab driver my old friend isan hello my friend good to see after all those years to meet you again what a coincidence what a nice I love that [Music] how are things in Istanbul it looks very different they're building stuff everywhere I don't know what happened but a lot of Hotel a lot of shopping center open more restaurant open more disco open more discos more disco but I thought this this is a conservative government government conservative but people and they have to shake they have to drink life to Short [Music] most people ask me did you make any accident and I say yes I killed two people three people hospital and when I pass Cemetery I say this is eastan section they are scaring really how can you ask the taxi driver did you make any accident right again we cross to Galata Bridge I love here look at this city Santa sopia there Top Cab Palace there new M Mania Golden Horn I love this [Music] cityo come on everybody Ean is got Crazy Taxi Driver is nice job I love this job because you meet every time new people right and on the way you never get up right [Music] for I wish I dance but I dance belly dance enough enough enough what what a man come on everybody say this not normal nice study about otoman how to read learning otoman languages when you ask why isan to learn this because I want to read history original right probably not while driving though yeah yeah not driving but the traffic already stop if you I talk too much and you're boring and I go take another taxi because I talk too [Music] much this is my home area oh here you live uh in this neighborhood yeah we call this area loant so this is local favorite of yours this restaurant this restaurant I know since 30 years so it's cow cow foot Tripes ni very nice that looks good man this is just delicious are the young people more conservative or less conservative my daughter married religious person and she has a scarf another daughter young and 18 years old short and moderate they walk together one is scarf one is not right maybe one day you invite me America and I will be make belly dance on the American Main Road taking my budy I think probably get arrested for that [Music] [Music] the voice of a stumble I've had at least 30 names from New Rome to Islam B now they say I'm between the East and the West an identity crisis mine or theirs enough of this nonsense take the labels off and just look at me you won't need a guide book like all cities I have my own sense of time I'm a Labyrinth of layers that only Mak sense without a [Music] compass if you're hesitant not sure which way to go as you walk about follow one of my cats they would lead you to places introduce you to people point out Secrets they keep even from me they more than anyone are the longest continuing residents of the [Music] city a challenge to those who see the future in my past I'm an obstacle for those who see only the future [Music] I see change with the patience of [Music] centuries look at my Silhouette from the bridge on the Golden Horn time has not passed me by it has protected me I ask of you the same [Music] an hour ferry ride and a world away are the prince's islands in the sea of [Music] marmura gundu Vaso and his friend sah ymas have invited me for lunch um actor translator yeah uh philosopher poet are these good times to be a poet in Turkey it is actually because it's a way to bring down the noise any way because so much words are exchanged especially in heated political discussions I have become very used to and fond of this drink by the way maybe too used to it and too fond of it they used to call it lion's milk and a famous Turkish poet is known for saying I wish I could be a fish in a bottle of Raku SRA prepares a traditional spread of mes Turkish mes are an extremely tasty very diverse assortment of dishes originating in every corner of the former Ottoman Empire the Ottomans like to eat and entertain and they employed armies of cooks to Dazzle them with Ever Changing menus variety being key circassian chicken fava beans rice with muscles eggplant stuffed grape leaves poached eggs with yogurt all classic and all delicious what shall I give you a few of everything yes please put some oh maybe I could give you some chicken already make room for that I think here we go wow it's really pretty am I getting a distorted picture of turkey by spending all of my time in Istanbul it's very different than the rest of the country yeah how different but I think in Istanbul you have all the different parts of turkey also what does it mean to be Turkish what do you think sah are you Turkish yes but it's not my fault [Laughter] man this is so let me say this food is extraordinary I mean really really really amazing but when I was here last it was a very different mood now at least the tenor of the things said by the government are increasingly ugly uh and intolerant and you've got this social activism that's very unusual certainly the government is sort of appealing to traditional Islamic values whether it's for show or not there seems to be some re-evaluation of how much of a party town do we want to be these days the powers that be don't like it and do they genuinely not like it or are they appealing to a political base no no no it's populism it's a political base and lots of people of course play along saying that they don't want to drink Etc because that's the way you get your contracts that's the way you get things done but I mean nationalism seems to be working internally yes nationalism and xenophobia it's a vote getter almost anywhere well it's a vote getter but it's a vote loser as well in the sense that there's so much backlash what uh do what do you think's going to happen it'll get back to normal do you think it'll go back oh yeah [Music] she [Music] walking down Istanbul streets it's easy to forget or not take seriously the slow but certain change in attitude towards this kind of [Music] Freedom the right for lack of a better term to party [Music] the AKP is in power because a majority of Voters put them there their attitudes For Better or Worse reflect the attitudes of a great number of Turks all right man this is Nuri a Turkish businessman I'm glad we met you because you are an AKP supporter you vote for AKP yeah I did right um why before economy was so bad no foreign investment interest rates were so high inflation was about 100% per per year so it's very hard to make business in such circumstances in 2002 I had 70 employees now it's 250 since I got here here I've been talking to a lot of people who are very upset about the environment they're upset about the destruction of old beautiful buildings to a great extent they they do not like what much of the world would call progress so when you saw people running out in the streets and demonstrating yeah what was your feeling they said they went there for the threes they went there for the environment but at the end they were together with the terrorist people we have to accept the stumble like this we got nothing to do I cannot change it no one can change it no going back 50 years ago they could do something but not now you're not sentimental about the old neighborhoods the old uh no I got used [Music] to this is a party town this is a nightclub town the impression is that there's some ambivalence there 10 years from now will we be able to come to this bar or a bar like it and uh and and and drink lots of gin drinks and misbehave no problem no problem I think still a party town right we drink hard so it's all about money it's all about money everything is all about money in the world you again who will be turkey's bestest pal internationally which way are they looking to the east or the west east Russia China Iran and the Arabic countries because uh West Europe is getting weaker and weaker day by day the next 50 years it's going to be the era of the East not the West mhm so these Notions of like freedom of the press these are not Eastern Concepts no no they're not okay I going ask a tough question is freedom of the press overrated yeah yeah yeah so rated you think it tightening up on the Press is a sacrifice that you're willing to make for a good economy I don't want to put words in your mouth but prosperity for the majority yeah it is it's the same all over in the world it's not difficult for turkey that's life oh thank you thank you this is a really bad idea okay cheers [Music] hey see hi of course good to see you welcome to our Park oh man I'm glad I haven't eaten yet that is pretty awesome looking so have you ever had Turkish breakfast before with you I love that you even do eggs in the park pretty impressive yeah this place is called abas Park it's a one of the last remaining parks in the vicinity since 2013 people have been Gathering here what in what we call forums to talk about their ideas for different um how can I say debates chats mhm different people Gathering here at night after work and then talking trying to find Solutions right we didn't have any other place to go so we came here uh why is it so important I think it's not just for us for for future residents of isan right this space turned into a space of politics a space of Hope against this uh system which seems to be like impossible to break actually is it impossible to break no not now it was impossible a few weeks ago a few weeks ago it was impossible so you're you're feeling optimistic the hope is the revolution you know if you lose your hope then there's nothing to do I think the tide is turning but for the if you compare Arab Spring and giz park uh things uh I mean in the Arab Spring they are uh protesting against a dictatorship but in Turkey I think we can say that there is democracy Esra and her friends previously unlikely to have known much less come to like one another were brought together by circumstances have you been gassed not that much but yeah by gas you mean are you talking about pollution I also tear gas oh tear gas when you are getting gas together you really connect H through life or death situations you hold each other and run away together it was a very actually emotional thing for me um because all my life I was taught to keep away from different types of people like I never had a Kurdish friend I never had a people around me were all like me and I was um lacking so much richness in my life thanks to gizi I saw everybody is the same people learned the real democracy in gizi people learned to speak like tear gas connecting people tear gas connecting people when you just run away together [Music] democracy is always a fragile thing 92 years ago modern turkey was assembled from the fragments of the Ottoman Empire it is always struggled to find a balance between Nos and power and the consent of its widely diverse population since the filming of this episode turkey's newly elected Parliament failed to form a coalition and president erdogan quickly called for new elections [Music] at the same time he's revved up military action against Kurdish opposition forces in both Southeastern turkey and across the border in Kurdish Iraq many claim that he effectively plunged turkey into conflict in a bid to take advantage of an atmosphere of fear and uncertainty and improve his party's chances of success this is not an unreasonable assumption on on anyone's part fear Works fear gets votes the opposition had hoped that the tide was turning it remains to be seen if they have any reason to Hope [Music]