Anthony Tries "Don Carlos" in Buenos Aires | Full Episode |S07 E05 |Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown

[Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] so I'm trying to understand Buon aurus and I've only got a week [Music] [Music] I took a walk through this beautiful world felt the Cool Rain on My [Applause] Shoulder found something good to beautiful world I felt the rain getting [Applause] [Music] CER sh [Music] [Applause] [Music] kind of amazing they work you know I still like I look at a plane I'm figuring I understand scientifically how they fly but it doesn't look like it should work no it doesn't that's a big hunk of metal yeah and who are these people are they waiting for friends to arrive or no they're just here looking at planes yes it's popular you come in here and you watch a couple of planes come and go the whole family yeah buenos sarus capital of Argentina second largest country in South America it's got a quirky unique character all its own it looks like no other place and it feels unlike any other [Music] oh silence yeah right it's very pretty here I mean it's really beautiful I'm glad I came in the summer when it quiet it's got sort of a mournful sad sweet quality that I like fits with the architecture [Music] [Music] where does everybody go like now where is everybody the city is empty month of January every went go for holidays January and February are the hottest months here middle of summer most Portos who can afford it get out of town to cooler climbs they go to uguay Orel Plata which is our beach or to pagonia or to the [Music] north I have a home in pagonia uhhuh far away for any restaurant that has no internet no electricity no phone I mean it's a little antisocial for a guy who's a communicator you're all over television yeah I am not very social Chef restant tour Francis malman is one of the biggest and most influential figures in Latin American Gastronomy a TV star head of a restaurant ire and now in middle age gives delightfully few shits about anything unimportant this is a restaurant I love gitos he serves you whatever he has there's no menu of all the places in the world that Francis malman can eat and has eaten if this place he wanted to take me to bodigon Don caros it's him and his wife in the kitchen with the two daughters there's nobody else and they've been open for 45 years an unassuming family run joint across from the soccer stadium so who are the customers ordinary you know it doesn't have crisis it's fun because you see very simple people and if you look sort of well and elegant you will get a big check and if not you'll get a small check that's the way it works ah this is caritos caros you sir welome thank you beautiful this guy there are Gods here besides Tango and football or soccer as we call it there's beef Portos as residents of Buenos arees are called like beef and meat in general but particularly beef that's fantastic man I love this place already yes I love meat ate meat every day now that's exciting this is one of my favorite things on earth love it now it's a proud country I mean one of the stereotypes is that Artisans are too proud that they're and full of themselves vain proud if this is so why is psychotherapy so huge in this country this is the kingdom of doubt you know my kids have been to the Shing since they're for a year or two because you know go to the strink and talk to someone who you don't know right with whom you can say whatever you want I did it myself a couple of years when I was 13 I mean it's an extraordinary thing because in many cultures to confess that you need to even confide in someone is seen as a sign of weakness here everybody does it and in no way frown upon it mhm it's kind of cool cuz I could I could really I could use somebody I I need somebody to talk to have you ever done it um I was a teenager my parents caught me with drugs and as part of the deal to uh stay out of uh uh stay out of trouble I I saw a therapist briefly mhm meet Mariana my therapist Argentina has the distinction of being home to more head shrinkers per capita than anywhere else in the world so Tony what brought you here what brought me here um well things have been happening like uh I will find myself in an airport for instance and I'll order an airport hamburger it's an insignificant thing it's a small thing it's a hamburger but it's not a good one suddenly I look at the hamburger and I find myself in a spiral of depression yeah that can last for days George Orwell said something that really upset me he talked about human beings are essentially tubes into which we shove food mhm and this is my job I travel around the world with these people and and they turn on the cameras and then for a certain period of time my job is to shove food into my face and and what's wrong with that um you have to [Music] eat look at that [Music] just gone messing around there right beautiful I mean no it's perfect food wow I mean it's really unnecessarily delicious what kind of food is this where is it rooted between Italy and Spain and then a bit in the gou or too with the meat the way he cooks it is laoka this neighborhood is very Italian they say that this is where Tango was born in this little Street two blocks away here called Caminito and where does that come from emotionally the need for Tango why here Tango is is extremely sad it's about love about despair it's about poverty and the dance I think is one of the most elegant dancers in the world you know they barely move and and suddenly they stop get in when they stop you know you you tremble because you feel that the man is sort of inside of her almost and then he goes on [Music] [Applause] it's crushingly lonely uh I travel over 200 days a [Music] year so I had this dream again that I've had as long as I can remember I'm stuck in a vast old Victorian Hotel with endless rooms and hallways trying to check out but I can't I spend a lot of time in hotels but this one is medicine because I just can't leave it and then there's another part to this dream always where I'm trying to go home but I can't quite remember where that is are you alone I'm alone in this dream [Music] yes in my heart what I like when in Argentina is that we take time to sit down and have lunch every day yeah I'm always and they finish lunch and they stay in the table for 1 hour more with their friends and then they go to work or they have a SI stuff then nap and then a nap very important I'm on board with that on the outskirts of town in the Roaring summer heat the fires still burn hot the tempting miasma of meat fills the mid-afternoon air on the paria many parts of once living things Sizzle and Char for the pleasure of those penos who remain in like Mariana my new therapist W what wow wow I don't think that's enough meat is King and fire and we shall go hard in honoring the flame got I don't know where to attack this first all of us we call it auras auras kidney sausage which is chizo black sausage which is the more here and this is the famous intestine right after a week or two here even confirmed carnivores like myself will fall to their knees praying for a vegetable so is this normal like lunch for people yes tell me what what did you do during a time in W airis ate a lot of meat yeah you have any vegetables in this country at all you know there are a lot of vegetarian people here yeah right and they chicken chicken isn't it why is therapy so big in Argentina because I mean the country also has this GAO tradition a very Macho tradition yes that's what therapy is for they can do it there they can so it's okay yeah it is okay see as New Yorkers we tell each other every you tell strangers all of your problems we overshare well people here don't overshare no I I feel like kazimoto the Hunchback of notredam if if he stayed in nice hotel suites with high thread count sheets that would be me I feel kind of like a freak and I feel very isolated I communicate for a living but I'm terrible at communicating with people I care about I'm good with my daughter an 8-year-old is about my level of communication skills so that works out oh my that was just a vegetable course yes later I'm going to have a nap that would be a portano thing to do like after yeah have a nice it's much it's more like people from the the provin from the right well that's me I'm a no I'm not I'm not a country boy actually City I'm a city boy but I do like [Music] naps so regular people all summer long you stuck in buar what do you do go go for a barbecue go out for dinner [Music] you have L of shows and concerts and music so what's the best season the best time of year for you the best money the best business in summer in the summer summer yeah yeah now yeah yeah yeah yeah what cuz it's tourist European people of from the north States Canada is called now they come into the summer right H the waiter the career server that great disappearing species of proud well-trained Specialists members of the service industry who Trac their Roots back to the great hotels of Europe and Beyond into history those who remain like this man Mario We Salute You So how many years in the dining room a lot yeah I start in when I was 70 years old in a restaurant 17 17 years the people who work in a kitchen one type of personality the people in the dining room you need to be more sociable I like very much to speak with whole people from the whole world M when I speak a little English German speak German very well Italian Portuguese and a friend of mine who's worked in the business a long time he tells me whenever a man comes into the restaurant with a woman they never say Oh Mr so good to see you again no no no you don't know if the woman is his wife or someone else and if you say so good to see you again they say what do you mean again I thought you said I'd never you'd never been here I remember when I was 18 years old I was a in a restaurant working come a man with his wife and say how are you Doctor Rodriguez always do you go to the nightclub o sh that man want kill him right big problem now no of course no never must never must say if you're a cheap Tipper by the way or rude to your server you are dead to me you are lower than whale [Music] feces 20 30 years ago waiting was a profession yeah yeah you know yeah everybody learned certain skills if you need to take bone out of fish serve the fish at the table side I make everything right so steak flamb yeah no problem no problem right crep suette crep suette of course every these things I do it yeah all of this of course fold the napkin all [Music] that remember when I started in room there was five Capal six wers five assistant weather s assistant was quite different nowadays it's more simple all all come and Dish the food then right in France no more you don't see it no more no in the mishan restaurants you don't see it nowadays people are more simple yeah CU they easy yeah yeah easy very easy they say keep me red one keep me white one no problem which one this work was I doing as waiter slowly Ming away that's the I suppos 15 years or 20 years more let's [Music] finish to the old style cheers [Music] who do foro see themselves as I mean do they say well I'm Argentine I'm from Argentina or do they say well my people came from Italy or my people came from from Spain is from another planet I'm I different from anybody else I tell stories for a living I write books uh I make television a reasonable person does not believe that you are so interesting that people will watch you on television I think this is evidence of narcissistic personality disorder to start with do you think you had a narcissistic personality before you start to be in a like a public person or after that before I think before probably yeah I think always so so it's nothing to be done I know that the after you become a monster that up and things about to blow a monster monster Monster [Music] monster [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] monster it's a spread of so many thoughts W you have you know the life of the musicians which is very important here the Tango all the art artist then you have sort of a corporate world which is always boring and on the other Edge you have in the very poor neighborhoods all these hundreds of thousands of children that run behind a ball and they want to be soccer players and they have a dream it's all they have and they know the faster they run the harder they hit that ball the better they move around it maybe they will get it [Applause] [Music] Chef you do this all the time like uh once a week this late at night yes it's way too late for me restaurant subculture depending on where you are can revolve around a number of activities not all of them wholesome in my experience the business is hard the hours are long the comrad intense after a long day and night of work the Mind turns to soccer okay this is a distinguishing feature I was frankly unprepared for everyone here work for you well we have like two teams you know it's parisha yes and close like two blocks we have Chila and I'm the chef of course and we have the two teams right Chef solidad nardelli along with her husband and business partner owns operates Chila restaurant but she still works the line we as a country we are ignorant of our culture traditions we have a lot of products not only meat it's 1:00 a.m. and tonight it's a blood match between the crews of chilo and its sister restaurant L gril we share a lot of products with Peru Bolivia Brazil Paraguay we have the big influence of immigrants like Germans people Netherland so that that is our identity Rich Traditions yeah do you want a drink what do you have we have far we've been drinking a little bit oh good we are used to drink pares the digestives it's good for your stomach right you know you know so it's healthy yes I ain't playing no soccer alcohol and meat in tube form however are more familiar to me the Toros are homemade 40% pork 40% cow and all the cats are dry age so sweet so it's got some funk [Music] yeah I don't know whether it's the television or the 30 years in the restaurant business I I just I never understood how normal people lived you know when I was a chef I worked all day I hung out all night with other Cooks other rest people you know like I really love like barbecuing on vacation in the backyard I love cooking for my daughter I like doing these really normal mundane things because I never got to do them before so you've been in arrest business a long time I started heretis right uh 18 years ago right but wait a minute cooking was not your original plan what was the the original plan was law yes but why would you do such a foolish thing I mean there's no money in cooking most of the time back then it was a business business dominated entirely by men I was I was not feeling good with myself you know and I said maybe I'm going to be a really good lawyer but I'm not going to be happy in my life so right away he said okay I'm going to cook and you went to Bokus to uh Institute uh Paul Boku yes yes yes it's tough school yeah very very traditional for me the experience of France was really hard oh I can only imagine you know Latin American woman from Argentina speaking L few french I cry all night call my mom and she she told me like so go on keep going keep going keep going and I always said when when I have the opportunity of running my own kitchen I'm not not going to repeat any of the things that they did to me so till now I I did it okay you know for you you know all these tough guys they all big babies anyway like the first women who came in kitchens when I started back when it was all men one woman would come in and pretty soon all the guys are like going crying to them with their problems it's like you know please be my mommy you know they'll be you know tell me what to do you know got it [Music] oh I think we're ready for [Applause] CH the delicious delicious chip Pon is an iconic street food around here for reasons that are immediately obvious once you bite in a one oh that's good I needed this badly [Music] this is Argentinian style it's beer with Coke beer no that's wrong man [Music] [Music] no I'm old for this [Music] who's here it's summer right uh well that's a very interesting [Music] question a lot of lower class people that can not go out for a holiday they stay here and they make a Party happen in their own neighborhood [Music] [Applause] [Music] now how long is Carnival season here uh it goes on every weekend for a month a month yeah Carnival is different in Argentina decidedly different in every bario in Buenos arees there are celebrations with over a 100 mgas as they're called taking to the streets traveling from bario to bario by bus doing their thing so they like neighborhood teams yes every neighborhood has one or two of these M and they start in one neighborhood and then go to another and then go another and it's healthy competition between every [Music] neighborhood these guys are MGA Los amantes they're from laoka which according to the guide book is an old industrial neighborhood in the port District known for historic buildings and no small amount of [Music] crime is it like a parade a block party it's a little bit of it this is not like Rio Carnival you have a cute parade with lots of money right you know we do a lot of different scenes most of the meals or I drive sports cars I jump out of planes but there are a few things that terrify me carnivals I'm not a I I'm afraid of [Music] clowns hor horrified people dancing [Music] crowds you know I've lived a long life without ever going to Carnival in Rio or or Marty I I don't like it there's something frightening about crowds too and what if they all decide to do one thing at the same time it starts as a party 5 minutes later it's like Nazi Germany [Music] yeah well it's a Pity that you you couldn't enjoy the whole Carnival stuff yeah okay this is perfect for me I'm sitting down I'm drinking beer it's all right honestly it has a common roots with Brazilian Carnival and urugai Carnival but in each Place took different way in Brazil it was more for the spectacle and uh the lights and here it's more about the pride of the of the neighborhood [Applause] [Applause] [Music] take [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] another [Applause] [Music] [Music] this Romanticism this uh sadness this uh love of sadness what was it about the history of Argentina that allowed this to take root from a difficult life my life you know living in a little room but always with the glory and the dream of the night out of the man who has his beautiful hat for Saturday [Music] night and then next morning you know we added his back who's left in the City who else stays who else stays well construction workers construction workers this building it's a big one say 18 stories right it's in the middle of capital fedal from the center of Buenos so it's going to be an expensive building so who's going to live here I don't know people with money I mean you know how's the economy the economy it's crazy it's uh some people doing good and some people not doing yeah the middle class has been disappearing they tell me that everybody in Argent sees a psychologist or a psychiatrist is this true it's true there everybody yeah well not everybody people that can afford anybody right so let's go back to the first question I asked what brought you here I'd like to be happy I'd like to be happier I should be happy I have you know incredible luck mhm I'd like to be able to you know look out the window and say hey life is good and you don't no I'm not going to get a lot of sympathy uh for people uh frankly I mean I have the best job in the world let's face it I go anywhere I want I do what I want look that guy over there loading sausages on the grill that's that's work this is not so bad it's all right I'll make [Music] it they come and go if people work hard like they do in construction it is expected that they be wellfed and in Buenos arees wellfed means yeah you guessed it how often did they do this once a week on Fridays they used to do it every day but economic you know me really expensive expensive [Music] now I always remember you know walking on the street and you you smell the you smell it from the construction sites yeah so most construction sites they do like this mhm [Music] everyone Nico lead singer of octafonic like nearly every portano sweet he knows good beef yes yes and where to find it it's good wish you work hard need a big hunk of meat it's a you know from the low low chain of the meat mhm but it's really has a lot of fat and it's right good for you yeah he says that we need some wine red wine yeah right I saw some construction sites that they have they they serve wine yeah yeah man I guess that the owners of this construction especially are strict about it I'd be a little nervous yeah of course up on the top floor drink yeah so where most of these guys from [Music] we got one from Paraguay here IO from Argentina from buenos arees or from outside of Buenos arees usually from inside from the provinces and how long has the job lasted I was asking it started one year and a half ago wow yeah that's a long time mhm how much work is there a lot a little I mean after this another job yeah I guess they jump from from construction to con so they're working regular always yeah mhm [Music] it's hard get back to work after having yeah I would just want to go home and sleep [Music] [Music] I'm flying out uh in just a few hours and you're going now next to to Rome it's such a beautiful city now next Brazil then to Japan Nashville Vietnam Houston you know like there's the evil cheeseburger that sets me off the evil hamburger suddenly I'm super depressed for days it's like that with the good stuff too I have a couple of happy minutes there where I'm thinking ah life is pretty good [Music] this is cool I'm enjoying this yeah it's like the movies but cheaper yeah right the pilot of the airplane saying hi to the kids [Music] wow what's in the box man what's in there yeah we have a model overated which is like workman's spitter it's a kind of verm yeah I'll have some of [Music] that so how are you doing therapy my therapy I feel all better now yeah all better what do you think how how how I mean is there hope for me H wow oh boy that's that is a same promising I think what is good is that you start thinking or keep thinking about what's wrong in your life what do you want to change and especially what do you feel you can change I was kind of hoping for a prescription for like morphine was this an unreasonable I think you should you should keep doing therapy to yeah me too you're probably right yes yes I love saying in one ofes in summer when the streets are empty I love the city I was born here this hug Metropolis where a lot of cultures melt people from all Latin America people from Asia people from Europe the personality of oniris is made from the melt of cultures when I get back to New York I'll tell you I'm going to get off that plane I'm going to make myself a big salad excuse me kid what party Ser [Music] language all right what do you say we get some sausages yeah [Music] I