IMNC Beige Build: Episode Two (Dual PSU Mount & Single Power Cable Mod)

what is up everyone welcome to episode 2 it goes without saying if you have not seen episode one then go and check it out okay let's carry on with this build so the first thing we are going to do is actually undo a lot of what we did in the last episode we've got the test bench up and running so we've proven that both psus work at least well enough to get us to this stage and all the key components work motherboard CPU RAM and storage I think you'll all be delighted to hear that it is finally time to try and test fit some of this into the beige case so let's rip this apart and make space for the case [Music] itself here she is so the basic plan is to remove all paneling from the case because this is going to be such a dense L packed build we will need access to all areas of the case and the first part that I'm going to put in is going to come as quite a surprise but due to the way that I want to try and squeeze all this in we are going to have to kind of start from the front and work our way back at the bottom here so the very first component we're going to need to test fit is in fact the intake 80 mm fan we need to find out where that guy is going to go is it going to go inside the front bezel here will it fit in between the chassis and the front cover itself or is it going to have to take up valuable space inside the case which I'm really hoping it doesn't because it's going to be a tight squeeze in there I have no idea if this is just my imagination but I've left this case here for weeks just sitting in the sunlight from the Skylight above and I am convinced that the front panel is looking ever so slightly more yellowed than it was when I originally got it it's probably my imagination I don't think it can happen that quickly but it is certainly looking very good to me okay main side panel little accessory kit take this out as well for now we're going to need to do some test fitting with that as I explained in the case video we want to try and retain all of these things in the case we want to chop up as little as possible and I did decide to keep the crazy audio pass through thing just for the authenticity of the case so we're not even going to change that we're keeping the separate USB pins uh USB front header pins okay back side so we want to take this front panel off ideally but we do need to keep it handy okay that crack at the top is getting worse I've got to be really careful with that uh we need to repair that ASAP so there's all our front panel connectors they stay in place so throughout the whole build our front panel is going to stay here pretty much because these pass through cables feed right the way through to the PCI bracket and unless we take that oh no we could we could probably fit that bracket through the front of the case but we'll leave it for now because we need to test fit now what I'm really hoping is that I can get an 80 mil fan in the front of the case here um it is going to be tight yeah I want to put the fan this side so that I don't lose space this side which will make a lot of sense let me grab the fan so we are going to look a little something like this if that is at all possible and then getting that back on you know what guys I'm going to give that a go let's find some fan screws so here is a packet of lovely fan screws worth noting that buying an 80 mil fan from everase you do not receive the screws now we're actually kind of breaking the laws of physics here a little bit because the way that these grills are designed is there's an indent this way through the case that way so that the fan has space to breathe you can screw it tight against the case and there is space here the grill is set back say 2 or 3 mil from the case itself so when we put the fan this side we're actually going to be pulling the fan as close as possible to the case when we screw it in but there is still going to be a gap between the main frame of the fan and the case itself we just got to hope that nothing actually scrapes on the case side we've got to be careful about the cabling so this is going to be quite fiddly but once we've got a couple of screws in it should get a bit easier okay let's get that loosely held with one screw and then go into the opposite corner another thing that's not very easy about this is obviously we're creating the threads as we go with these screws okay so that has mounted beautifully really nicely so the idea is to feed the fan cable back into the system so that we can plug it in let's feed this USB back through that I kind of prematurely pulled out so popping the front panel back on Moment of Truth does she fit and let's keep an eye on our cabling so that we're not getting anything caught in the fan yes sweet okay that is brilliant so what we now have is our lovely intake but it's not taking up a huge amount of space in the case it is out of the way now granted the air flow will be ever so slightly less because even though we do have these cutouts here the fan is now Incredibly Close to these cutouts it no longer has this inch inch and a half of Gap that the front panel occupies it is right there so it's going to need to collect as much air as it can from underneath and this vent but it should still blow some air as an intake obviously when we power the system up if there's zero zero air flow we can always change that but it's going to make our lives a lot easier if we can have the fan out of the way in the front of the case there so with that little experiment done we can leave the fan on there we go yeah the panel does definitely close didn't realize that top Corner wasn't actually in but yeah no that's fine um I'm going to pull this front panel off again o I don't like doing that too much because this crack at the top is yeah we're going to need to sort that okay let's get this panel completely out of the way let's pull the cabling out and my plan is with this guy is we should just be able to feed it back through the hole at the front of the case should go through put that back in cuz we may not put in that pass through into the same place anyway at the back that is really cool guys I was getting ready to wangle the PCI uh the PCI blanking plate here back through the front cover but it just sits in there like that yeah check that out that is really cool so yeah we can um we can put that slot cover back let's pull this out the way so that now comes out no problem meaning we can get our front panel out of Harm's Way completely let's pop this back into place then before that goes walkies brilliant okay cool that has worked out wonderfully another little note if you guys didn't see the uh case video right to the very end I did put the feet on in the uh not the previous episode but the video before that where I took an overview the case because I scratched up my desk really badly with the uh feet off which was really annoying so uh I know to do that straight away next time if I ever buy another one of these that is actually pretty sweet as well because the cabling from the power button power LED board here that just neatly bypasses the fan completely and goes straight in there there's no danger of anything getting caught so that looks really nice let's see if we can get this top panel off which looks riveted on yes it is so that is actually brownie points lost for the case I don't like that at all I should be able to take that off yeah case definitely loses points for that um to give ultimate Freedom when putting a complex system together it's really nice just to get rid of the top panel there I'm not really a big fan of the fact you can't take that off but that's fine you could of course drill them out screw the panel back in but that's really uh unnecessary it was just going to give us a little bit of extra breathing room we don't necessarily need it right we need to get this motherboard in here so that we can test fit our main component for that we will need the io Shield have a little look and see what we've got so we've got one of these rather nice black IO Shields ooh nice and it's got the little uh MSI logo there on the io Shield not a massive fan of this IO Shield the tabs are very very Tabby and uh the coloring is nonstandard I don't like it when they do that I don't understand why the back of the io Shield needs to be aesthetically pleasing but there we go that's coming from a man that is um worried about the Aesthetics of the way the PSU looks at the back of the case needs it to look like something straight out of 1996 so that's not really a problem I won't moan too much about msi's choice to do that to the io Shield so there's the io shield in place let's try and get rid of that fan cable for just a minute so that we can look at where we are with these standoffs now it looks to me like we have possibly too many here okay yes there are a few here we don't need we do not need you oh they're in there pretty good we don't need this guy either ah Thomas you've taken yes taken one out unnecessarily first test fit of the crazy modern gaming board in the beige case let's find our elves some motherboard screws so in the bag you get additional standoffs which is nice and you get additional what are these for then what did I take those out of something to do with the case those loose screws in there I wonder what they were for uh anyway yeah you get additional standoffs and you get the fan screws guys so that's pretty nice so I'm just going to have a little screw party over here for a second I suppose with this just being a test fit we don't really need to put all the motherboard screws in let's put a few few in so that we can stand the case up at least um and we're going to need enough in here to hold the GPU as well or putting on unnecessary flexs on the board or anything like that so we'll get a few of them in get one in down the bottom corner there and then we'll put the GPU straight in in a normal kind of everyday build I'd put the GPU in as one one of the last components but it is vital to put it in now and I'll tell you guys why in a minute bye-bye slot covers hello rx580 what do we prefer beige case slot covers or the rx580 Fairly tough competition yeah one thing that's interesting is when you start building in the case you can then get to the next level of assessing the quality so I'm seeing now as I'm screwing the GPU in that it's pulling the back panel this way so the GPU the way the motherboard is sitting the GPU needs to pull ever so slightly just a millimeter or maybe even half a millimeter just needs to pull the back of the chassis in on itself a little bit just to properly align yeah and this is where the GPU anti- sag bracket comes in because the alignment isn't quite perfect between where we want the screws for the PCI slot and where the motherboard sits so the GPU isn't 100% straight so we can use the the vertical GPU bracket hopefully it's got the adjustment on it that I'll need to just push the GPU up like that uh but there we go that's everything we need in the case to kind of test fit this so now I'm going to show you guys my crazy plan so what is all of this pav renade of guys well let me show you my plan and for everyone that was saying Tom don't do it man um firstly thank you it was touching to see the people concerned for my safety actually um that was really nice and also some really sensible comments about why on Earth aren't I just putting a modern PSU in here even down to maybe painting a black one silver or stripping off the paint on a black PSU so that it looks silver all completely valid and what I thought was when this setup inevitably dies I mean I hope it doesn't die but when it does we could easily change the PSU for a more modern one to replace whichever one of these psus breaks first if they do and um yeah we could put a modern PSU in and make it look old take the sleeving off the cables and whatnot it's not something that I'd thought of at all but a few people didn't watch quite to the very end of the episode yeah of course there are better psus to be had and running two psus is a little bit stupid but they're not terrible terrible psus one is an fsp an fsp is used as an oem for many different brands of PSU Cooler Master corset granted different models but there are spect able brand PSU and then you've got the seic which is definitely older unit of course but um it's still a seic so it's not going to be terrible trust me trust me it's going to be great anyway on the power supply front this is exactly why we need to do this right now because we need to discover where we need to drill the case to mount the PSU if we can even fit it in at all so my plan is to mount the Fireball in the traditional location there and then I plan to mount the C [Applause] Sonic there and oh my gosh I think it will just about fit so if we unplug the other PSU for now get out the way there we go there's our GPU PSU can we indeed this is why I didn't want the fan here guys can we indeed get this in here put a little not too crazy Bend radius on the ketchup and mustard cables here and sit the PSU in the front of the system it looks like guys we've got just enough space to actually do that so to assist with mounting I purchased the 3D printed brackets now the trouble with these is they are wider than I would like to be able to get this done so this would actually be a great bracket to just hold the PSU in place then I could screw this into the bottom of the case but if we take this out for just a moment let's get rid of all these front panel connectors for now we'll be able to squeeze those in anyway get rid of all of that cool that's out the way that can go around the PSU any way we want ah you know why that's not fitting guys is because the casing on this is not aligned let's quickly fix that we messed that up we're going to be opening this up for a third time as well to clean it but right now we don't want do that that's the cleaning phase that can come later right now we are in the wild engineering phase there we go that's all it takes to get it lined up properly is just to give it a little squeeze when the lid is going back down locks the case nicely into place and now this 3D printed PSU mounting adapter should fit over quite nicely okay that is the case sorted now we should find there we go that goes on a lot better there we have it so we could in theory slide this to a certain position on the power supply let's say there for instance and then we could squidge this in yes but this is the problem we're faced with now if this 3D printed Mount worked in a slightly different way if the screw holes were coming out of the mount here we could screw in from underneath and then we can push the power supply in obviously it's not designed like that because it would be very awkward to install if you wanted to put this let's say you were using this mount for uh mounting your PC components to a wall for instance it's much better like this because you can just hold that up against the wall screw that in job done but for our purposes it would be a little bit better if this Mount was the other way but we do get a little bit more of a tolerance back here because the motherboard tray isn't in the way so if we slide this all the way along let's see if we can get the PSU to fit if we've got it like that yeah we actually can it is tight it is flipping tight but we really really can and in fact we wouldn't even need to push it over that far let me try and get a little bit of a better angle so you guys can see this the motherboard tray is what's stopping us putting the PSU Mount here but there is quite a gap here where there is no motherboard tray so we could do potentially something like that which is actually kind of cool anyway because it's holding the PSU in the middle and we could do that oh man and that just about just about fits in there which is crazy what I would then do is because the backside of the power supply is raised here because it's sitting on the little nubbins that push through from the case feet I would just pack out this side with something so we' drill a hole there drill a hole on the back screw this bracket in that holds the power supply and then we simply pack this side so that it sits level and it otherwise it's going to do that and that's going to look pretty nasty we don't want that I think that's the best way to do it now I do have uh these two parts are meant to be used in conjunction this is meant to be the part that you screw the side on but I know this isn't going to fit because uh screwing from the back sorry this is wider and it's just not fitting in the case so we're not going to need this part at all but this as you can see is going to work which is really nice and we can even not creating a crazy Bend radius when we when we Mark out these holes we can make sure that there's a gap between the power supply and the graphics card without creating a horrible horrible Bend for this because we need to retain this Bay so the cables need to come up over and up into the rest of the system and then you know exist within the system so if we just do a little test fit of the cabling situation do you know what's quite funny as as well is it's very very close to holes that already exist in the case which is just peculiar I think it's a little bit mad that those holes are there so that's what I might try guys I could even take short screws and use these middle holes to hold it in place like that and then the beauty of that is as well if the graphics card isn't in the system we can slide the power supply in and out so we can take the graphics card out Mount this and then just Slide the power supply in that is absolutely phenomenal it fits beautifully I think let me show you the screws I'm talking about because you won't be able to see these screw holes here no sorry these ones here nearly align but they don't quite where's that gone so if I was going to mount this all the way over here look they don't quite align as you can see I could use those screw holes and then screw right next to these holes but I don't know if that will just chew up the bracket a little bit too much and then neither of the holes are going to work so what I might try instead is coming a little bit over this way and using these holes I can pack it with washers on the underside find some short screws you could even get four in there cool I think that's the plan that has actually gone a lot better than I expected fitting the power supply in there is going to be pretty easy sadly I don't have time to do it today I've now a shoot off thankfully for you guys I will be back in just a moment but for me I've got a few agonizing days to wait until I can work on this guy again so at least we've got this far we've test fited it is looking [Music] good so my goal for this next little session is to try and get the PSU mounted if I can get that in there we are sorted now I did most of the figuring out the other day all I have to do is just get it in place and get it screwed in I think the best place to start with that is to make ourselves some more room we can take out the 3 and 1/2 in Drive cage we need this out anyway because it's going to be easiest to populate this with drives when we whoops as I put the screwdriver straight through the middle of my monitor there it's going to be easiest to populate this with drives when it is out of the machine so we need it out let's get it out the way this will give us more room to work in there's one more screw my gosh one screw hiding there there we go so that's the lovely little Drive cage out of the way that'll hold our two external 3 and 1/2 in devices the floppy and the card reader and it'll hold our SSD with its adapter because as you guys know the hard drives are going up here so what I'm going to quickly do now is get this back out the way okay cool and to give ourselves maximum room let's take the video card back out this can go back in pretty soon okay lovely that's such a beast huge now we're talking okay so I mentioned the other day in the previous clip for you guys that I think we can mount the bracket then we can slide the PSU in but I realized that the motherboard could well be in the way so if we just do a little test fit of that because if that's the case it's not so much a problem it just means that we've got to screw the power supply in and the bracket at the same time so this is going to sit here as we decided and we can get four screws into the bottom of it but then are we going to be able to slide in the power supply no because the motherboard is in the way it's not going to allow us the space to actually do that which is fine so we have to mark up this bracket then we have to slide the bracket over the PSU and then screw it in from the bottom of the case once it's in we can slide the PSU back and forth to put it in the best possible position but that is what we have to do for now okay sweet so next thing we're going to do is see if fan screws actually fit through those holes in the case and the reason I want to look at using fan screws is because we can drill a very very small pilot hole in the 3D printed bracket here and then we can use the fan screw to create like a nice thread and then it'll be quite strong but yes fan screws are too big okay plan B I'm going to open up my lovely little secret case of screws where have I put that here we go maplin finest back in the day the One-Stop shop you would need for all of your PC bits and Bobs we are going to use whatever I have in here that is going to be somewhat appropriate nice thing about using these is I know they're going to be short enough lovely okay I'm going to use some of these hard drive screws with little rubber washers on them cuz I think that will be nice so four of those that is going to do the trick they will fit through the case beautifully giving us adequate thread into the mount just put one up from the bottom yes that'll be absolutely plenty should be anyway okay so we'll make a start there first now all I need to do is line everything up so that I Mark out these holes properly so it's 1 two 3 four holes we're aiming for and we're aiming to get this bracket directly behind and lined up appropriately which shouldn't be too difficult because I can see the light through there then if I can tape the bracket in place that is then great and we are good that is the bracket perfectly taped in line so my next issue is I actually do not have a drill bit small enough to do this I was going to drive a tiny tiny hole into each of these four positions but I definitely don't have a drill bit small enough I have snapped all of my small drill bits I need to replenish those so what I'm going to do instead is use a small wood screw just to kind of chew up because these um machine screws these Drive screws are just flat on the end they're not going to cut through it so if I just temporarily use a little wood screw to chew it up that will do the trick just fine okay sweet so I should have done enough to mark that beautiful guys I can see a tiny tiny hole in each of the locations on the bottom of this so that's ideal 1 2 3 4 I'm going to need to enlarge them we've hit the jackpot I found another little multi- pack of drill bits in my tool kit yes does pay to have a second look sometimes would have been easier to drill this in place I've already taken the bracket out now it doesn't matter I've got an indent for each one so we are looking good I have now got two holes the perfect size in this little PSU Mount I'm I haven't got all four holes I'm going to do the other two holes when this is in and the PSU is sa in there I think that's the best way to do it just in case I've got some kind of alignment issue that's cropped up I can then adjust that whereas if I do all four holes now then this is pretty much useless then I could get a second attempt flip it round and use this side but I would prefer to use the thicker side on the bottom and I don't have a spare one of those that I've purchased so next step now is to take the PSU back apart give it a little clean and then reattach that cable tie then we can marry the PSU and its new mount back together and attemp attt to screw it into the machine so we're going to be careful this time not to unplug the fan I'm pretty sure it was unplugged anyway last time we took the lid off I've looked back at the footage and it doesn't look like I unplug it when I pull the LI lid off but I'm not 100% certain so we'll take the lid off nice and steady this time okay lovely that fan is still plugged in that is out the ways I can get that to reattach this cable tie okay cool right let me find a suitable replacement so I've got these I think I may need to tie two together oh that's actually the perfect length that's that done thought I'd need to link two but no that length ended up being okay okay so next up I just want to try as best I can to clean a bit of this fan without unplugging it I do not want to unplug it again so that is definitely chewing up the kitchen towel so I'm going to use a cloth instead and then we can put a bit more pressure on yeah there we go that's getting us a bit more success okay that is overall a little bit better that is good enough for me for now let's pop this back together sweet as nice now let's give the overall casing just a tiny little clean up next mission is to get some of this stuff mounted so we need to have the PSU fan up so that it gets some sort of air flow we need to put this on here like so and we need to mount this in the case now let's eyeball a good place we need that a bit further down this can be adjusted later anyway you can see how two mounting holes on the bottom now okay let's go with that for now so this is going to be quite an awkward thing because we need to balance the power supply while sliding the system down to screw it in from the underside Chuck you guys up there feed the screw through the hole and okay one is in that was scarily easy let's get our other one I don't want too much pressure on this one screw obviously two screws in now all I need to do is just very quickly there I would rather try multiple times than overshoot that most defin definitely there's the third in okay one more to go just trying not to overshoot these things okay that one is looking good as well last screw for 1 2 3 four my gosh okay let's take a look at how we're looking oh man man that is sweet that is absolutely lovely so what I think I'm going to want to do is Slide the PSU ever so slightly this way there we go and then the cables will neatly come up here nice up here I'll put a few more cable Ties on them okay nice that is looking really good so we've got the power supply sloping that way a little bit and that's because the case feet are under this side uh so it's pushing that side up because I've screwed it down so tight I can't pack it out this end so what I want to do now is just for a sanity check put the GPU back in I know that I can't access these two SATA ports but we've got one two three four SATA devices and we have 1 two three four SATA ports available there so that's absolutely fine I won't be able to put the uh fifth and sixth SATA drive in but you know even the drive selection I've got anyway is overkill so what we want to do here is just plop in the GPU just for our own sanity we could leave the GPU back in the system anyway we can always remove it if we need extra room brilliant clearance is great so if I push all these back here out the way for a minute we can kind of yeah that's what I can do as well instead of having the cables coming through the middle of the system like this huge chunk of cable because there's a gap this side the 3 and 1/2 in cage comes this way but not all the way that way cuz it's a smaller cage than the uh 5 and a/ qu we've got space back here to stash these additional cables and we can just bring through what we need and that's right next to the 24 as well so that makes it really convenient the only thing I wish I would have done is packed this end of the PSU a little bit in order to level it out I guess I can still I can still kind of do that if I was to back off those screws and then pack something in underneath you know what I'm going to do guys I am going to use a little bit of double-sided tape the foam style double-sided tape not because it's sticky but because it is the perfect height to just pack this in ever so slightly so let me lift that push that in h two layers I think boom that has done it that has done it if I can just force that in there we go nice awesome that is the PSU mounted guys wow now that we have that in that is like one of the other big unknowns answered first one was will the system work at all with two power supplies the second one was can we get the second power supply in the case answer to that is well and truly yes we can and it is now in there which is awesome and looking pretty damn good I might add so the next part is a part that you've all been looking forward to and that is the modification SL uring of the fireable power supply so for this we are going to move the system out of the way for a second and we are going to bring into the frame this guy okay as it has been a little while since episode one I'm going to refresh you guys and remind you that this is the power supply that we are going to slightly alter in order to run this whole system from just one power cable and to be able to control both power supplies with just the one power switch that power switch being the one on the back of this power power supply a couple of you guessed what I was going to do I'm going to split the incoming AC between this PSU and the second one and to do that it is very very straightforward see what's quite nice about this one is this fan wire is wrapped around everything else so it won't pull out of the board uh which is nice so all we're going to do is we are going to split this feed here this is the AC going to the power supply we're going to split this we're going to tack another cable on we're going to run an AC line out of the power supply into the other power supply so first step for this we're going to need a power cable I have dug out this uh unused Surplus to requirements I extension cable we want this side the female side of course that is going to go into our fsp power supply then we want a length of this standard Flex cable that will go through the PC case into this power supply and ultimately end up by these connectors here so lengthwise we are going to guess it I'm going to leave it generously long and we are going to cut it about here this leaves us with a little male I tail that we don't need now we're going to trim off a generous portion of the sleeving to give us a nice bit of room to work with we'll tidy this up a little with a bit of the old heat shrink here where we've trimmed the ounter sleeving there we go so that's nice and clean so the basic plan is we have the outer sleeving in place and as normal throughout the PC case just to obviously give double insulation and protection to the 23 volt electricity that is now running through the inside of the computer uh but in inside the power supply itself we've stripped back and we can now appropriately run all those cables where they need to run so we need to piggy back from the live piggyback from the neutral and then we just need to plop our ground to either this existing Earth lug on the bottom of the PSU or we just tap a new one in there which might be easier now that is probably not strictly necessary because the entire PC chassis is grounded because the power supply is screwed to the PC chassis you plug the mains Cable in here this is grounded PC is grounded and that should in theory ground the other power supply however we are mounting the other power supply with a 3D printed Mount and also we've got that double-sided tape under it it's not making excellent contact with the metal so we are definitely going to want to rely on the actual ground wire within our Three core Flex here um in order to deliver a perfect connection to ground for that secondary power supply the other thing that I was thinking about was the exit route of the cable itself so for this I was hoping to originally tap the cable just out of the power supply in a different location but there doesn't seem to be anywhere I can actually do that there's not a lot of room because once you've got the lid on here the fan occupies a lot of the extra space around here so if I wanted to say for instance Tap Out Here by getting the cable this way maybe put a stuffing gland there tap out the side um that would not actually work out because it's in the way of the fan I can't come out the bottom because it's a bottom facing fan could I come out of this side I guess I could come out of the lid but then you've always got the Main's cable tied through the lid which isn't great plus this cable is running super close to these cables anyway to the low voltage side so I'm going to risk it and just run the high voltage out the same cutout if we add another cable tie sorry there add another cable tie there then we have our terminations in here and we are job done screw the power slide back together that is absolutely fine cable tie there to stop it moving around and then that's coming out with the same the same place as that cabling that is absolutely crazy um yeah so we'll work on that I think first of all a good use of our time would be to crimp an earthing lug on here a little bit of trial and arrow with these cable sizes that's all good cool so there's our little ground connector ction we can just pop that through anywhere that's convenient could be a bit long actually I might needed to trim that a bit but yeah there we go there's that um we can we get it on there I don't think so that might not be possible so the next thing I need to decide is how we are going to splice this neutral and this live into this cable here we could go directly to the output side of the switch but there's not a huge amount of room for us to solder directly on which is a bit of a pain if they were both at the top then yes but they are not so let's start I'm going to just kill this cable tie so that we can get a closer look at everything so as you can see we're coming out of the I Inlet here up into the supply side live neutral and then out of the load side here which is live neutral so I think the easiest thing for us is to actually cut into these cables here on the load side that way our switch will correspond and we can splice in these cables I think that is our best choice so no turning back now guys we're going to splice straight through them that is one sacrificed power cable yeah it's far too close this this side to try and get a new cable there on that side of the switch far far too close we're better off putting a join in okay so quickest way to do this would probably be in connector blocks but I think what's wise first is if we do our Earth because we may be a little bit in the way once we put everything else in here to actually load up this earth into an appropriate place so I'm going to try and get on that existing lug if we can get under there like that that would be incredible but we've got to come under there first so we're going to come under under there then under there there we go so my plan now is to try and see if we can undo that nut and get onto there we may even just be able to put a blob of solder on that yeah should we try that so program is really really sweet um we got really lucky with the Earth so as you can see I've brought in the flex back here I've brought the Earth underneath and there was enough space on this post here to just undo the nut plop on the second connection and then just do the nut back up I couldn't get a spanner in there because it's so tight so just a little pair of pliers did it their needle nose torque it around a bit um and that is nice and firm and I've got a confirmed Good Earth connection all the way through the path so if we take the new flax cable it's going to go into the other power supply if I touch that against the casing we are good and naturally if I touch that against the actual Earth pin itself we are good so then the next piece of progress we've got is I have terminated the incoming connections on the load side of the switch so we've got our neutral here I've crimped a little bootlace feral crimp on the end there so that we can terminate it more easily with the other connections we're going to put ferals on here as well so whichever method of termination we decide on I think it's going to be terminal blocks to be honest but I don't know if I've got any I'm going to have to have a little look and see I've got some wos but they're for much bigger cable which is annoying lovely that's a beautiful thing so we have the those ends prepped these ends prepped and now those ends so they're all going to need to meet in a junction here in the middle so that's cool that's those two done now all we've got to do is these ones it's really easy to retain what is live and what is neutral because they look like black wires but they're not this is just heat shrink so these are in fact colorful we can see the blue and the brown so these are the only terminal blocks I've got I think these are something ridiculous like 30 amp but we should be able to pack everything tight into here um in order to get our solid connections these are quickly falling out of fashion which is really good news um because they are not amazing at all there are far better Solutions these days especially for work like this I could do with ones a lot smaller but we'll make it work there's no regulations to break here anyway because uh we've already broken them all I bet the casing a little bit by the way this power supply it's only sheet metal very thin it'll Bend back into place perfectly once the lid is on as well and it's all screwed together it will be fine I just need a little bit more room to work it's out of the question taking everything out because these switches uh are not removable with screws from the back panel anyway uh there's no point because we' just take the board out and then we have the board flopping all over the place while all this is still on the back of the power supply here so there's no point doing that we don't gain a single thing all we need to do is strip back these a smidge more that is beautiful thing okay there's our connectors there available to us do you know I should have thought a bit better actually I should have crimp these together rather than trying to get both ferals into this terminal block that would have been a lot better I was kind of imagining that I was going to have a threeway on each of the live and the neutral and I was just going to have a nice yeah three-way Junction here but obviously that's not the case with this okay right then that series of connections is done okay so we've messed about with that a lot so the first thing I want to check is do we have any dead shorts cuz we've moved those connections on the switch quite a lot best way for us to check if we have any dead shorts is to at both ends do this okay so no continuity between live and neutral neutral and Earth Earth and live all fine then we do the same test on the back test meter good meat is still good good good and good now let's do a real test we are going to go in there and continuity continuity and continuity so we've got continuity on all three wires down to the second power supply next thing we need to do is ensure that there's going to be no strain pulled upon that at all so for that we are going to get another one of our cable ties ensure there's some slack quick pull test lovely that's pulling on the unit as a whole now and not on the connections really glad we went through those bigger connections guys into that oversized connector block probably what would have helped with this is if I made a plan beforehand to do this properly but we're just kind of winging it again so we have made a terrifying Frankenstein power supply and I'm going to show you guys what it looks like now that we have it back together so what we've ended up with is our Fireball power supply and as well as all the PC cables coming out of it we have a Main's AC cable coming out to support the uh the secondary power supply so what we can do now is as a final check we can take our cett lead plug that in and get our meter and with this we can check our continuity through this power supply so we can go Earth continuity good neutral continuity good live continuity good and again we have no dead shorts which is obvious because we' wir them up separately but it's still best practice to check and again continuity is still in place for this power supply so last thing we need to do is actually test it out with the other power supply now we've mounted that in the system so let's get the system back up here we will plug the fireball into the Main's Electric switch it off we will plug the new trailing cable into the seic and turn that on okay now we're going to remarry these two power supplies through the 24 pin connector there we go and now all we've got left is to get our little power supply tester where's that gone then okay are you guys ready if there's any potential fire going to happen it is going to happen now okay we plugged in the primary PSU you guys ready 3 2 1 go sweet we are absolutely running [Music] [Applause] [Music] so we are that much closer to getting this PC finished we have both of the unknowns completely answered that was the mounting of the second power supply would we be able to fit it in the case the answer is yes it is successfully installed in the case so that means we now have two power supplies in the same case which is quite nice and the second thing was the power supply mod to allow us to just use the one power cable that we've got here powering the PC uh was that a success yes it was so this is a perfect place to leave it for episode 2 I think because episode 3 can now just be the build everything else going into the system we need to screw the motherboard in properly and we need to add all of these crazy accessories that we've got to go in there's all the drives the mounting the various funny little bits and pieces that we're going to do and we need to try and cable manage this thing somehow as you can see the cables leave quite a lot to be desired but I do have a little bit of a plan there are a lot of cables to fit in here but we should be all good before we finish the episode however I do have a few things to address so firstly you guys can see that we're sitting on the Windows 10 installer behind me here I'm not putting Windows 10 on the system I'm putting Windows 11 on the system this was just the closest USB that I grabbed I just wanted to kind of test does it boot up into a bootable device I know we went as far as the BIOS and we clicked around and we changed settings that that was all good I wanted to just get into some kind of drive and prove that it that it does actually function uh which it does of course so I've been satting this installer for hours and hours another reason that I wanted to just sit in something was because I wanted the system to remain powered on for a long period of time um not that I think it's going to burst into flames but because we fiddled so much with it and we've been inside both of those power supplies several times it was just nice to power it all up and make sure everything was indeed running safely and smoothly yes the system is idle and things could be a different story when it ramps up but it's all about testing things in stages we don't want to just fill this system up bung Windows on it and then start running 100% CPU and GPU benchmarks straight away so just having the thing powered up for now is a good step to trusting the system and uh seeing what it's capable of so far it's sa here behaving itself quickly as well I do want to mention that I have plugged both of the case fans in both the front and the back 80mm fans into the nearest motherboard headers that may change in the proper build in the next episode but I just wanted to make sure that there was some air flow through that front fan with the power supply there and there is indeed air flow I can feel air coming over the top of the PSU it's quite a lot as well and it's uh nice and loud it's got that authentic 80 mil kind of sound going on which is what I really wanted it'll quieten down a fair bit when the panels go on but we are going to add more noise with those 5 and 1/4 in Bay hard drive coolers as well so that's going to be really exciting few other things to mention really quickly in the last clip the fireball power supply those of you with the key eye may have noticed that the fan wasn't spinning I have addressed that I took the power supply back apart and all I needed to do was move some of the cable that we' added just out of the way the fan ever so slightly it was just physically stopping the fan from spinning I've done that I've tied it down a little bit neater so now nothing is in the way of the fan spinning so that is all good and I've made sure that both power supplies the casing is fitting properly on each because at various points during these videos the casing has been misaligned when I've reassembled the power supplies quickly and enthusiastically so uh both the casings are installed correctly and both the fans are spinning on the power supplies final thing to mention about power supplies in general is something that's kind of come to light as an idea since I started filming this series is there were a lot of suggestions about as I said earlier in the video getting a normal Power Supply and then possibly painting it or getting a normal power supply and stripping the paint off to make it look silver maybe pulling the sleeving off the cable so that it looked older than it was all those sorts of ideas um but probably the strongest idea for doing this properly without getting two underpowered psus and and you know chopping them about and things the best thing that I could have done which is completely possible and probably what I will do if I have to replace this power supply setup is find a power supply from a relatively modern pre-built system because if it's a high-end is pre-built system that contains a graphics card it will be a relatively powerful PSU and if it's a decent system it will be a decent PSU but it won't have gone through the finishing stages of an offthe shelf PSU so they are likely to be silver with not very pleasing to the eye cabling now one thing to watch with that is you need to make sure it is an ATX system loads of pre-build can be weird standards and power supplies just completely not fit but there are a good few pre-builts that are ATX and I'm not talking systems that are kind of built by um one of these companies that buys off the shelf parts and then puts them all together and resells the system that's not really what I'm talking about I'm talking of more your traditional kind of O type systems that would typically contain something like a silver Power Supply so maybe a HP system maybe a Dell system but they tend to be quite proprietary although not always but that would probably be the best path to go down is look for a direct replacement for a PSU for one of those systems to power something like this then it would be not very pretty it would look older than it is and often not have a modular interface as well which is something else that I didn't want the final thing that I want to mention before signing off is my miscalculation of the 5 and a/4 in Bay I have an optical drive and two hard drive coolers they are the three bige beige accessories that are going into this system however I do have a blank Bay so if any of you guys are watching find something on eBay or have something lying around or any suggestions then I'm all ears because I can't find anything exciting to put in the fourth Bay now I know there are tons and tons of crazy accessories out there but a lot of them tend to be more modern than this era so we're looking at kind of black or silver stuff and then they are quite hard to find as well in a specific search on eBay now what I don't want is a hot swap drive tray thing there's just no real need they are very easy to come by in all colors including beige in fact even evercast sell them so that's where you can sort of uh pull the drive out the front of the system and it's got a back plane for usually IDE but sometimes SATA in a pinch that would be a cool thing to put in but I don't really need it and I want this system to be useful um there are various sound card 5 and 1/4 in Bay adapters like uh creative ones and things like that but they are hard to find easy to find in Black harder to find the older ones but they are out there they're out there for quite a few sound cards as well which would be cool because it would give you volume knobs and things on the front um I'm also looking for temperature stuff but again that came later so if anybody knows of anything beige that I can put in that fourth Bay I am definitely O is just send me a link put it down in the comment section uh I'll check that out because when I finish this series whether it's episode 3 or episode 4 depending on how the next episode goes I want to have all Bays populated so I'm currently without one 5 and a qu INE accessory that is it for episode 2 thank you so much for sticking with me this has been loads and loads of fun I think when we're done this is going to be a really really groovy machine thank you all for watching and I'll see you in episode 3 [Music]